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One Rat Too Many T 
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One Rat Too Many 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The wide part.

Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>


This ascends the bushy crack to the offwidth finish left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.

Start up an easy crack system passing 3 bushes. Continue up to the offwidth. There are still some loosish chockstones in the offwidth that refused to comeout on lead. A #4 Camalot fits just before the crux. A #5 Camalot (old style) would have been nice for the double Gaston offwidth finish. There really is no ideal anchor up above. You can get a decent threaded sling below a boulder.

Walk off left or traverse 4th class to the 2 bolt anchor to the right.

Most folks won't find this terribly appetizing.

Also, there is a left finish for the last 10 feet or so that is probably 9+. It may need a brushing.


This is left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.


Red Alien, #0.5, #0.75, #3, and #4 Camalots worked, although an old style #5 Camalot would have made the finish more secure.

Photos of One Rat Too Many Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Gaston or real offwidth technique, your cho...
Double Gaston or real offwidth technique, your cho...
Rock Climbing Photo: A closer view of the wide crack.
BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the wide crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb enjoys the lower section.
Deb enjoys the lower section.

Comments on One Rat Too Many Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The crux will take a new style C4 #5 above where you can place a #4, but if you want to "sew it up", I would use a #6. The wide part is only about a body length long.
By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The offwidth at the top is the crux. I suck at OW, so it felt like a 5.9 to me. #6 C4 was great to have for it
By Theodore Morrow
From: Golden, Co
Feb 18, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I feel like I'm reasonably strong at sport climbing, this was my third trad lead ever, and I didn't have anything bigger than a C4 #3. I ran it out at the top and just laid back the offwidth, very easy layback with positive slopers. My offwidth technique is non-existent, but I never felt that this climb was hard, especially if you have gear for the offwidth. My gf found a great knee jam with a no hands rest right at the beginning of the offwidth.

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