|One Of These Days Buttress
The crux: It's probably the sustained climbing esp after pulling the roof.
What's good: (a) it's well protected, (b) it's varied- from finger cracks to roof to hand jambs to overhang to chimney- a little (or a lot) of everything for 115', (c) it's got an anchor with chains so you can top rope it with a 70m.
One Of These Days is located on the north side of the buttress.
Trad. Pro to 2.5". Anchor with chains. No protection bolts.
|Comments on One Of These Days
|By Ryan Curry|
Sep 6, 2009
THE BEST 5.10 crack in the Tahoe area. A must do for the 5.10 leader. Take care in lowering from the chains even with a 70 meter rope, it's close.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Jun 10, 2010
One of the best single pitches at the grade that I've ever done! Sustained and pumpy, but just when you need them a bomber fingerlock or handjam or jug will appear, keeping it from ever getting really desperate.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Oct 22, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I can only echo the superlatives above and say it's an awesome must do for the grade.
For rack recommendations, I'd suggest possibly bringing triples from .5 - 2" camalots. At maybe a hair short of 35 meters of climbing, you might just use every cam on your rack. Then again, I didn't slot many nuts, I was just busy surviving my "warmup". Hint: climbing Bush League first may be a better idea ;).
|By Ron Anderson|
Jan 28, 2011
I was up there in the early ninties with Dano and Tom Gilje- who hadnt been up there before, he led it with three pieces i think...His feet even blew above the roof wayyyy out from pro- Dano looked over and said "hes a freekin NUT"...took him maybe five minutes..
Aug 5, 2011
A fun route but I wouldn't call it the "best in Tahoe area", It's not a route I'd climb again..Been there done that.
From: Oakland CA
Oct 4, 2011
This route reminded me a lot of Lunatic Fringe. A number of different 5.10 moves separated by great rests, long pitch. I think where the crux is on both routes is going to depend on your personal strengths as a climber, but I did feel the individual crux moves on Lunatic were harder, but that the rests on Lunatic were better since that route isn't as steep as These Days. Pretty similar in overall feel, and both routes eat stoppers.
|By Matt Twyman|
From: Austin, TX
Jun 28, 2012
no joke on the 70m. my slightly chopped 70 didn't exactly reach. Had to tie in on the upper boulder then stretch it down to the start for TR.
What a freaking classic line. Wonderfully sustained with a few moderate cruxes. Pulling the roof isn't as bad as it may look. Most fun. Really just holding out through the end is the crux. Great power-endurance trainer!
Only a few sections with suspect rock (the undercling flake, just before the obvious giant flake, really should be considered for removal. Big enough to really do damage to anyone below or even cut the rope if it went. I put a big chalk "X" on it to at least make new travelers aware that it's questionable.
Incredibly sustained and anyone who leads this deserves some giant feathers in their cap. Alex Mellon told me he plugged ~ 25 pieces. Good lord.
|By Bill Kelly|
From: Lake Tahoe
Jun 28, 2012
"really should be considered for removal"
Matt, thought-provoking comment. I've had the same concern regarding this flake myself over the years but ultimately concluded its presence adds to the route character and therefore (esp in the absence of changed conditions, e.g., obvious looseness, etc.) ought to stay. Seems to me it is a so-called God-hold and its absence could likely change things considerably in that section.
FWIW, my take: (1) Since it already looks tenuous, climbers won't yard on it. (2) There are places to belay this route at least on top rope that are not in the direct fall-line. (3) Responsible leaders (those likely to be leading this route) tend to lead responsibly - calling out suspect fragile or loose flakes to the belayer as needed and using caution around them.
Glad you liked the route!
|By Kenny Thompson|
From: woodfords, california
Jun 30, 2012
Jan 23, 2013
there is NOTHING that needs to be cleaned from this route.. It has had 10,000 ascents by now...