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One Of These Days Buttress
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One Of These Days 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Karl McConachie
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 2,867
Submitted By: Bill Kelly on Sep 3, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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One of These Days, in all of it's glory. June 2010

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Description 

The crux: It's probably the sustained climbing esp after pulling the roof.

What's good: (a) it's well protected, (b) it's varied- from finger cracks to roof to hand jambs to overhang to chimney- a little (or a lot) of everything for 115', (c) it's got an anchor with chains so you can top rope it with a 70m.


Location 

One Of These Days is located on the north side of the buttress.


Protection 

Trad. Pro to 2.5". Anchor with chains. No protection bolts.



Photos of One Of These Days Slideshow Add Photo
Overhanging, but not too pumpy.
Overhanging, but not too pumpy.
One Of These Days, 5.10c
BETA PHOTO: One Of These Days, 5.10c
Photos don't do the overhang justice.  This is on ya the whole time.  Remarkably consistent with maybe 4 cruxes.  It's definitely a crack but feels more sporty.  Be ready with TONS of gear.  And no joke on the 70m being exactly the right length.
BETA PHOTO: Photos don't do the overhang justice. This is on ...
Comments on One Of These Days Add Comment
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By Ryan Curry
Sep 6, 2009

THE BEST 5.10 crack in the Tahoe area. A must do for the 5.10 leader. Take care in lowering from the chains even with a 70 meter rope, it's close.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jun 10, 2010

One of the best single pitches at the grade that I've ever done! Sustained and pumpy, but just when you need them a bomber fingerlock or handjam or jug will appear, keeping it from ever getting really desperate.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Oct 22, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I can only echo the superlatives above and say it's an awesome must do for the grade.

For rack recommendations, I'd suggest possibly bringing triples from .5 - 2" camalots. At maybe a hair short of 35 meters of climbing, you might just use every cam on your rack. Then again, I didn't slot many nuts, I was just busy surviving my "warmup". Hint: climbing Bush League first may be a better idea ;).

By Ron Anderson
Jan 28, 2011

I was up there in the early ninties with Dano and Tom Gilje- who hadnt been up there before, he led it with three pieces i think...His feet even blew above the roof wayyyy out from pro- Dano looked over and said "hes a freekin NUT"...took him maybe five minutes..

By Branden916
Aug 5, 2011

A fun route but I wouldn't call it the "best in Tahoe area", It's not a route I'd climb again..Been there done that.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 4, 2011

This route reminded me a lot of Lunatic Fringe. A number of different 5.10 moves separated by great rests, long pitch. I think where the crux is on both routes is going to depend on your personal strengths as a climber, but I did feel the individual crux moves on Lunatic were harder, but that the rests on Lunatic were better since that route isn't as steep as These Days. Pretty similar in overall feel, and both routes eat stoppers.

By Matt Twyman
From: Austin, TX
Jun 28, 2012

no joke on the 70m. my slightly chopped 70 didn't exactly reach. Had to tie in on the upper boulder then stretch it down to the start for TR.

What a freaking classic line. Wonderfully sustained with a few moderate cruxes. Pulling the roof isn't as bad as it may look. Most fun. Really just holding out through the end is the crux. Great power-endurance trainer!

Only a few sections with suspect rock (the undercling flake, just before the obvious giant flake, really should be considered for removal. Big enough to really do damage to anyone below or even cut the rope if it went. I put a big chalk "X" on it to at least make new travelers aware that it's questionable.

Incredibly sustained and anyone who leads this deserves some giant feathers in their cap. Alex Mellon told me he plugged ~ 25 pieces. Good lord.

By Bill Kelly
From: Lake Tahoe
Jun 28, 2012

"really should be considered for removal"

Matt, thought-provoking comment. I've had the same concern regarding this flake myself over the years but ultimately concluded its presence adds to the route character and therefore (esp in the absence of changed conditions, e.g., obvious looseness, etc.) ought to stay. Seems to me it is a so-called God-hold and its absence could likely change things considerably in that section.

FWIW, my take: (1) Since it already looks tenuous, climbers won't yard on it. (2) There are places to belay this route at least on top rope that are not in the direct fall-line. (3) Responsible leaders (those likely to be leading this route) tend to lead responsibly - calling out suspect fragile or loose flakes to the belayer as needed and using caution around them.

Glad you liked the route!

By Kenny Thompson
From: woodfords, california
Jun 30, 2012

Nice petroglyph

By RDA
Jan 23, 2013

there is NOTHING that needs to be cleaned from this route.. It has had 10,000 ascents by now...