One of Life's Little Problems 5.7+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Bob Bradley, 1960s |
| Submitted By: | Deb Thompson on Nov 24, 2005 |
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Pitch 1 and a bit of pitch 2. 5.8 start on the le...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is an interesting 2-pitch line on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. This is just right of a large right-facing dihedral and ascends an inviting crack/flake system on P1. P2 climbs more like an adventure climb. There are more lines to play on here (Sunset Arete, Black Lichen Streak, Second Thoughts, Alignment of the Misaligned, and Thin Crack) on a sunny, windless, late fall or winter day.
Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten starts). Continue up and right on a trail until you come to a large right-facing dihedral which is described as an alcove in Gillett's guide and drawn in on page 212 of Rossiter's guide. It is probably 400 ft up and right from the nadir.
Climb up various crack and flakes to join a lieback about 50 ft up. This first section protects with wires and small cams to red Alien size. You can protect the lieback with a #4 Camalot. Continue up to a short section to a large sloping ledge system and find a belay up near a right-angling system with a fist-sized crack on its left. Pitch 2 has two starts. The left start begins here and works up cracks, flakes, and brushy chimney moves with a traverse right when you reach an bulge. Move back up and connect with the same system. The right start starts 30 feet to the right and goes straight up to this point. Continue up with 2 more short traverses right to gain a nice ledge in a shady alcove. You can belay here (especially if you belayed at the tree above Second Thoughts, if you TR'ed those 3 lines) with #3.5 and 4 Camalots. Pull a funky move yarding on a chicken head with a #2 BD wire for psychological protection and gain easier terrain to the Roosting Ramp. Walkoff right past Central Chimney & Crack of Fear.
Protection Standard rack with cams to #4 Camalot (#2 BD wire useful).
| Comments on One of Life's Little Problems |
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By John Maurer
Jul 8, 2008
| I think this first pitch is classic and has some great rock. The left hand variant is very nice, too. It made more sense to me to continue up through the beginning of the second pitch and belay from a large flake and solid crack. Many options to downclimb/rap from this area without leaving any gear. |
By 303scott
Aug 30, 2010
| For the second pitch we ended up in the Tilted Mitten chimney. It fit the description (a right-leaning weakness), and you can't really see the chimney from where we belayed. In any case, it seemed like the natural second pitch as it is located almost directly above the first pitch. If you want to stay on route, then I'm guessing you need to head way right to get there. |
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