||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
|Original: || YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]|
|FA: ||Equipped- Taylor Roy and Justen Sjong 1/12, FA-Taylor Roy|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Cool temps|
|Page Views: ||1,491|
|Submitted By: ||Taylor Roy on Mar 2, 2013|
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One Night is a very unique route that requires a diverse set of skills and the ability to relax and recover at awkward rest stances.
Undulating between less than vertical and slightly overhanging, the route basically breaks down to 5.11a crack climbing, to back-to-back V6, V7, V6 boulder problems, and then some 5.10 to a V5 dihedral. The beginning will test your crack skills and faith in trad gear. The first crux is all about slopers and body power. The second crux involves small edges and horrible smears. The final crux will test your body position and faith in friction.
Climb the first 25 feet of Frank's Wild Years
, and traverse right around an arete using a nice hand rail. After clipping the first bolt, compress your way up the steep face using an undercling feature and a slopey arete until you can stand on the hand rail. Once you have recovered, crimp some small edges, paste your feet on nothing, do a hard move to a right hand gaston, and move right until you can stand on a set of small edges. With the end of the difficulties just feet away, get set up on a left-facing feature, stand up on two buttery ripples and make a committing move to the "campus rung", then work your feet up and toss for a huge jug. Mantle onto the shelf of Frank's Wild Years
, climb up the easy crack, and finish on the difficult corner of Banquet
This is such a finicky, yet brilliant route. It gets only three stars, because the rock quality leaves a bit to be desired.
This is on the left end of the Quarry Wall. Locate Frank's Wild Years
, then find the bolts that start about 25 feet up and to the right.
Frank's Wild Years
requires gear from a blue TCU to a yellow Camalot. Bring a runner for the piece that protects the traverse around the arete.
The rest of the route is protected with bolts and a two bolt anchor.
By Taylor Roy
From: Knoxville, TN
Mar 7, 2013