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Hairpin Wall
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One Line, No Waiting 

One Line, No Waiting 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FFA: R. Muir, T. Condon, J. Hoste 1990
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 7, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: One Line, No Waiting
Topo by Robs John Muir, http:...

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Description 

Three pitches of 5.9 crack and face. Walk off by third classing to the right.


Location 

On Hairpin Wall


Protection 

Draws, Small wires, TCUs, Friends to #3



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By Richard Shore
Sep 17, 2012

I usually agree with Darshan's assessments of routes, but he was a bit off here. Fisrt, as stated on the main Hairpin Wall page, this route is NOT a "classic thin crack", but rather a face climb. There is maybe 10' of crack climbing on the first pitch in 180'. The route has 6 bolts, not the four shown on the topo. In addition to the #3 camalot (w/ long sling) placement in a hole before the second bolt, there is only really one other piece of gear needed, a .75 or 1 camalot in the short left-facing corner with a long sling. After about 10' of crack (before it becomes into a wide flare and turns left), step out right onto face past two more bolts to anchors. The fourth bolt protects a solitary 5.10a slab move. Lots of 5.9 on this route.

I saw approximately zero placements for small wires or tcu's.