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Nebel Horn Ridge
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One In The Chamber 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, William McGehee
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 237
Submitted By: William McGehee on Aug 6, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: 'One In The Chamber' ascends the corner just left ...
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  • Description 

    This route lies 20 feet to the north of the anchors atop Rainbow Bridge. Climb the obvious open corner, starting with a wide fingers, small hands crack that opens up to a 4 inch offwidth for 25 feet. Once you are standing on the decent ledge, look straight up to a small finger-sized crack. Make a committing move (crux) above a slot that takes a number three camalot, then continue on to the summit of the Nebel Horn.


    Hand size cams up to a #4 Camalot if you really want to bring it. Maybe a few medium to small stoppers for an anchor.

    Comments on One In The Chamber Add Comment
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    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Aug 6, 2005

    Neither Tony nor I were aware of any first ascentionists, so we merely claimed the route unpublished. If anyone has FA information, please inform us so we might give credit when it is due. This is a good set of routes to climb if you're in the area. Rainbow Bridge is a good destination climb, so this is a great way to top out on the Nebel Horn instead of working the third class climb to the top. ~Wm

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 8, 2005
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    #1) William was the leader on this pitch not me. The FA info should be reversed.
    #2) The name was my suggestion and reflects the condition of both of us while climbing this- afraid to fart. We were up at 5am and arrived at the crag without a 'morning constitutional' and were both in bad shape.

    By ac
    Aug 9, 2005

    Why not just "let the pet out" before climbing?

    By ac
    Aug 9, 2005