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Lower Grotto Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

One for the Road 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: M. Baker, B. Perlmutter, 1991
Page Views: 973
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 6, 2008
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Luke on TR at the second bolt.

Description 

This is a nice, pumpy line just right of the first pitch of Twin Cracks. Start on Twin Cracks or climb the unprotected and 5.9ish slot to the right. Place a piece or two in a flake and move right to the first bolt. A couple of difficult moves, including some stemming, lead to a layback and a difficult clip of the last bolt. Another 20' or so of easier unprotected or gear-protected climbing leads to the anchors.


Protection 

4 bolts plus the anchors plus gear. I placed 5 pieces of gear, 2 before the first bolt and 3 after the last bolt, including a nut, 3 finger-sized cams, and a yellow/#2 Camalot. The guidebook says bring only a 0.5 cam, in which case you want to place that before the first bolt.


Location 

Start as for Twin Cracks, then move right below the cracks to the first bolt.



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Jesse on "One For The Road".
Jesse on "One For The Road".
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By slim
Administrator
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

good climbing marred by awkward bolt placement. did the FA party get drunk in the parking lot, blindfold a dude, spin him around, and have him shoot 4 paintballs at the wall?

By monolith
Jul 13, 2009

Probably a three star top rope and a two star lead. Like the previous poster said the bolts are in wierd spots. Just tr it after twin cracks. Nice sequence through the crux! Makes you think a bit. Shares anchors with twin cracks.

By Lynn S
Jul 15, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Bolts are in odd spots but the climbing from just below the first bolt (green Camalot) to the anchor is really fun, cool movement.

By Jason Ogasian
Oct 17, 2012

4 bolts were replaced on this route in January 2012 thanks to support from the ASCA.


ASCA.
ASCA.

safeclimbing.org/