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 ADVANCED
Second Wind Wall
Routes Sorted
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Deer in the Headlights 
Deer Thirty 
Gale Force 
Great Deluge, The 
Hack Job 
High Water Mark 
Honeymoon is Over, The 
My Empire of Dirt 
One for the Doctor 
Over Forty 
Refrigerator Chimney 
Rough Drafts 
Second Wind 
Shorty 
Sunday Morning Coming Down 
Super Dihedral 
Vice Gripped 
When the Levee Breaks 

One for the Doctor 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman 7/29/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Aug 15, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The route, with bottom hidden behind foreground bo...

Description 

Start out of the chimney on the first 3 bolts of "Over Forty" up to the small roof (look for key sinker mono) where it cuts right to the arete, pull directly over the roof (1st crux) on crisp crimps with pitiful smeary feet and into pockets, underclings, and edges up to a great jug stance before the sequential and steep final headwall which is climbed just right of the gold streak on thin pockets (2nd crux) to a juggier finish up the arete to the apex of the wall.

A cerebral route with engaging climbing the whole way and a nice diversity of features--perhaps the finest .11 in Piney.


Location 

Shares 1st 3 bolts with "Over Forty" but continues straight up the right-hand wall of the chimney.


Protection 

9 bolts to chains



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