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 ADVANCED
Second Wind Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Deer in the Headlights S 
Deer Thirty T,S 
Gale Force S 
Great Deluge, The S 
Hack Job S 
High Water Mark S 
Honeymoon is Over, The S 
My Empire of Dirt S 
One for the Doctor S 
Over Forty S 
Refrigerator Chimney S 
Rough Drafts S 
Second Wind S 
Shorty S 
Sunday Morning Coming Down S 
Super Dihedral T 
Vice Gripped S 
When the Levee Breaks S 

One for the Doctor 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman 7/29/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 361
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Aug 15, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The route, with bottom hidden behind foreground bo...

Description 

Start out of the chimney on the first 3 bolts of "Over Forty" up to the small roof (look for key sinker mono) where it cuts right to the arete, pull directly over the roof (1st crux) on crisp crimps with pitiful smeary feet and into pockets, underclings, and edges up to a great jug stance before the sequential and steep final headwall which is climbed just right of the gold streak on thin pockets (2nd crux) to a juggier finish up the arete to the apex of the wall.

A cerebral route with engaging climbing the whole way and a nice diversity of features--perhaps the finest .11 in Piney.

Location 

Shares 1st 3 bolts with "Over Forty" but continues straight up the right-hand wall of the chimney.

Protection 

9 bolts to chains


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