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One Epic Leads to Another T 

One Epic Leads to Another 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brent Kertzman & Jim "Catfish" Scruthers - July 1982
Page Views: 605
Submitted By: Brent Kertzman on Apr 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Burt Lindquist nears the summit of Stonehenge whil...

Description 

The route starts up the slightly leftward trending water groove (described in the description for the area) and is protected by bolts. Move onto the first block past two bolts (crux) then onto a ledge with another bolt. Move onto summit block and climb the airy finish to the top.

Location 

(described in detail in the description for the area)

Protection 

Five Protection Bolts plus a flake or two can be runnered; Summit has bolted anchors.


Photos of One Epic Leads to Another Slideshow Add Photo
Burt Lindquist ponders the crux of One Epic Leads to Another.
Burt Lindquist ponders the crux of One Epic Leads ...
Burt Lindquist climbs the water groove on the lower half of One Epic Leads to Another.
Burt Lindquist climbs the water groove on the lowe...
Burt Lindquist engaged in the crux of One Epic Leads to Another.
Burt Lindquist engaged in the crux of One Epic Lea...
Me sitting at the top with my wife at the summit block.  if you go to the right it's a bit easier than straight up, but both are fun.
Me sitting at the top with my wife at the summit b...

Comments on One Epic Leads to Another Add Comment
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By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a superfun varied climb. Bring some extra webbing up just in case the anchors need to be replaced. I think the Aluminum rap ring is a bit beat up as well. Peace Out, Joel
By Peter Arndt
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This was our last route (out of 29 total)in five days in June of 07. It will be maybe the most memorable. The climb in true Black Hills fashion, is "run out" and for better of worse we did not have much beta. The "step across" on to the head wall was a surprise and a little scary. Rope drag nearly pulled me off the face and I had to pinch a small crystal to stay on. Believe me you don't want to fall on the last ten feet of this one. That being said "One Epic Leads to Another" has become one of my favorite climbs in the Hills.
By Mark Wright
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

To keep this route from being run out, there's a nice crack for a small cam above the second bolt, and a couple of horns that can be slung with double length shoulder runners above that. The top anchor is three button head bolts with thin hangers with webbing to two rap rings. The webbing was a little weathered in sept 2011.
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Oct 19, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

5 bolts. a .75 bd c4 fit nicely a little off to the left after the second bolt. a fun varied climb with some friction down low and some good crystals and side pulls up farther. i went right after the 3rd and 4th bolt and then again after the 5th. 2 other great guys lead it after me, one when straight up through everything and the next went right like I did. either way everything is there and it was fun. there are some run out but you're on slightly easier terrain at that point.