One Day In Denver, What Should I Climb

I have always wanted to climb in Colorado. I am going to be there for a day, and hope to get some suggestions from you all on where to go.

I am going to be flying into Denver Wednesday morning. I land really early in the morning and don't have anywhere to be until Thursday morning. I will have my climbing gear (trad and sport) and am going to rent a car and I am willing to drive quite a ways.

I don't know how far climbing areas are from the Denver international airport, and I don't know what the weather conditions are like in the Denver area right now, and I don't know how much snow is on the ground. I climb up to 12a, but would prefer to do something a bit easier because I will have my wife with me. That being said, she is prepared to jug a multipitch climb.

If you all were me, what climbs/areas would you try to squeeze into one day?

If you could have timed it better, the flatirons or eldo are the best intro to CO. But, winter just showed up, maybe things will melt out.

How much snow is there?

The forecast for wednesday is 52 and sunny. You have a pretty good shot at ok conditions.

I think the 3rd Flatiron and the Naked Edge are probably the most iconic front range routes. Bastille Crack too, maybe, although it would be shady and cold.

Clear Creek and Boulder Canyon are fun, but not really destination crags.

RMNP will be too snowy.

Would the trail up to yellow spur be too snowy? Would it be too cold in the shade?

All the trails in Eldo are very nice, and the approaches are generally short. The trail to Yellow Spur should be just fine. If it's going to be in the low 50's you would probably be fine in the shade but you might have more fun in the sun. I'll also second the suggestion to head to Eldorado. Probably the best climbing with the shortest drive and approach.

What would be some good, sunny climbs to do? My wife hasn't been out climbing with me in awhile, so I'd rather not keep her in the shade all day if I can help it.

I have heard that Indian Creek is a nice place to climb in CO.

BJB wrote:Would the trail up to yellow spur be too snowy? Would it be too cold in the shade?

To answer your question directly, it shouldn't be too snowy by Wed given the forecast; most of the route should be the sun; it will likely be breezy if not downright windy.

But flying into Denver, driving up to Eldo and climbing the Yellow Spur with only 9hr 37min of daylight is quite ambitious. Route finding isn't super easy (although not the hardest either). Sunset is at 4:37pm. If you're super psyched on a long route, good at route finding and ok with linking pitches that's definitely a good one though. Yellow Spur can be climbed in 3 pitches with a 70m, lots of slings and and about 30-40 ft of simul-climbing on the last pitch.

I would suggest a few 2-3 pitch routes on the West Ridge like Long John Wall etc. It's a shorter, easier walk if you're able to take the road up to the Milton Boulder (which may not be open because of the recent floods).

Take altitude into consideration if you haven't climbed at 5k ft before.

If you're looking for an easier day of fun, the 3rd flatiron is a great recommendation. You should have no problem simul-climbing it considering the level at which you climb. If you're GF has a decent head, OK with runouts on easy terrain, and good at placing gear you might want to consider putting her on the sharp end.

Hope that helps.

I can't help you much in the 12a range, but here are some thoughts on moderates...

Yellow Spur, I don't think, gets as much sun as climbs on the West Ridge, but this time of year I'm swinging tools rather than chasing the sun :). Also depends on what you mean by "a while" but putting your wife on Yellow Spur might not be super fun for her. In that same area, Rewritten, Great Zot, Green Spur are easier climbs of a similarly classic nature. Would definitely avoid the Bastille Crack and other climbs on that wall as they will be cold, cold, cold.

Gambit (on Shirttail Peak, between the West Ridge and the Rincon Wall area) might be a good climb for you and her; it's the highest point in Eldo and the last half or so is SW-facing so should get good sun. In fact it gets so much sun that in summer it's best to go stupid-early to be off the SW face before it warms up too much). Pretty awesome position too.

Mescaline, Pony Express, Sister Morphine are probably good 1-2 pitch routes all together on the West Ridge and a good variety of grades. Cirque of the Cracks perhaps (Pool of Blood etc., also West Ridge Climbs)?

Any of the Flatirons east-face routes should be good after a couple of days of sun and the position is pretty hard to beat anywhere.

Boulder Canyon has some good S-facing crags (Happy Hour and surrounding, Bihedral/Riviera and it's environs) but mostly 1/2 - 1 pitch wonders.

I've reconsidered. If you prefer to do shorter sport climbs, you can have a nice day in Boulder Canyon or Clear Creek.

Blob Rock would be a good choice in BoCan, some nice easy routes for your wife (Bolt Cola area) and you could get on 5.11 routes around Jolt Cola/Respite/Orange Crush.
The slab routes are fun, Hike with Ludwig and Hike for Y2K.
Around the corner, you could do The Young and The Rackless (multi pitch 5.10 sport) with your wife, then climb the Ticket.
Blob is up high so should have good sun.

Animal World has a wide assortment of excellent climbs, but is lower down so not as sunny.

Highlander in Clear Creek has a wide range of routes and is sunny, but can be windy.

The Dog House is a really warm spot in Clear Creek, with some nice easy routes on the left, a fun 11 roof, a fun but drilled 12a roof and some harder routes, also drilled. Nearby (easy walk) is the Cat and Dog cliff which has some interestingly featured new routes, but you would need to be willing to accept some lichen and debris. Cat Slab is nearby too, with fun easier routes, but it is not very sunny this time of year.

Forecast still for 53 and sunny. But you never know!

you could spend a more than a day just reading about the great climbing near Denver.

A day in Denver/Boulder and it being cold and snowy I would say screw it and not bother with bringing gear. Instead, I would hit up the micro breweries. But if you are really wanting Eldo is probably the best bet.

Have you climbed at eldo before? If you are confident on wacky trad lines with tricky pro & route finding, just go there. It's got the other areas beat in terms of natural beauty and adventure destinations. Some good advice on areas above. Just be careful not to get in over your head, or scare the bejeezus out of your gf.

Honestly, if it were me, I would leave the rack at home and just clip bolts at BoCan instead. But you seem to be more of a traddy than I. Young and the rackless is a great recommendation for 5.9 multipitch sport. Animal world has a lot of great variety for single pitch cragging. Can't say I've ever been to or at least remember going to Blob.

If you absolutely need to stay as near to Denver as possible, and your GF can handle 5.10, take her up People's Choice in Clear Creek Canyon. Really fun 3 pitch sport route with a lot of variety. Some other single pitch lines nearby make it a good area for both the beginner and the moderate to advanced climber (High Wire). And it gets decent sun. You could also go around the corner to the Wall of Justice for some gym-esque roof action if you get bored. If it is a little colder out, head up to Highlander (across the street from High Wire) or Dog House quite a ways up the canyon (but the Dog House area is ugly as dog poo - it's more of a local's lap route area for colder days).

CCC is not as beautiful in general and doesn't have the same quality of rock as BoCan IMO. Eldo trumps the two. Of course, there are always the flatirons.

Don't even bother with Table Mesa.

I'm off Wednesday and will probably be looking to get out and climb. Let me know if y'all want to meet up or if you have any questions. Feel free to PM me.

I'm looking at Yellow Spur and had two questions:

1) Are the belays bolted?
2) What are the odds I'm going to get lost on the descent?

BJB wrote:I'm looking at Yellow Spur and had two questions: 1) Are the belays bolted?

No. It is not easy to bail from and you will definitely have to leave gear.

BB wrote:2) What are the odds I'm going to get lost on the descent?

That depends on which one you choose. I usually just rap the chimney to the north of the top out. It's not too difficult to navigate although I do believe there is a scramble midway down.

Yellow spur may be a bit much. Consider Long John Wall or the classic Ruper. Still a buncha climbing at a more manageable level.

Have fun!

BJB wrote:I'm looking at Yellow Spur and had two questions: 1) Are the belays bolted? 2) What are the odds I'm going to get lost on the descent?

I would advise against yellow spur. The route finding is tricky, it is going to be hard for your girlfriend, the gear is tricky, and it is cold out here. People's choice is a good suggestion, or happy hour crag in Boulder canyon for south facing single pitch trad lines.

I don't want to spook you or talk you out of anything, but consider this:

I climb 12+ at Reimer's and the Greenbelt, which I'm sure you're familiar with.

I've flashed 12a sport at E-rock and lead 11+ trad lines at E-rock.

I've done lots of 11's at the Wichita NWR all trad.

Before I get flamed by someone on here, I'm not trying to say I'm a badass. I know I'm not, and there are lots of you, including kids and old folks that are much better climbers than I'll ever be. I just want to give this guy something local to compare it to.

I went to Eldo last May with Yellow Spur on my mind. After climbing there for a week, I still didn't feel quite comfortable on Yellow Spur. There's no way I would have done it in the first few days, especially in winter. That place is sketchy compared to what we're used too. The rock is sticky, like E-rock, so the holds are very small for the grade.

It's not super steep and strenuous like our local sport stuff, but run out and sketchy. Not to mention tiny nut placements are about all you get sometimes, which, I rarely use at our local trad rock pile. All this means things go scary and slow. I'd advise climbing in eldo, but maybe try some moderates first and see how it goes, and 5.9 doesn't necessarily mean moderate in that canyon, even for a 5.12 climber.

This doesn't even factor in the altitude. You'll be sucking air like crazy for at least the first few days, and it doesn't sound like you've got much more than that. Add short winter days, etc., etc...... Don't rule it out, just have a backup plan.

My vote would be for 3rd flatiron. It's iconic and a great couples multipitch climb with great views. Bring some hot chocolate to drink at the top and if you're done early you can always check out eldo down the road (for the twofer!) and do bastille crack, or just go into boulder and do the tourist thing--check out the microbreweries and the teahouse. Esp if you're still acclimatizing--you'll be slower than normal and time may not be on your side. And it seems to me that you'll probably be tired after your flight and maybe jetlagged.

Eldo climbs can be tricky with the routefinding, and while fun, they can be super frustrating with the routefinding and gear. And the descents can be a bit hellish.

Take your top lead grade, subtract 2, and take on the most classic Eldorado Canyon climb you can find. Most if the crag gets mid-day sun right now. Eldo is Colorado as Yosemite is to California. (That said, if you are more ice and Alpine it is a rocking season for early alpine ice).