One Brick Shy 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | John Bronaugh & Stacy Temple, 12/92 |
| Season: | Warmer Weather |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Feb 10, 2007 |
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Description This climb is a mix of characters typical of the left and right sides of the Wall. The bottom has the pockets and steepness expected to the left, and the top the slabby crimps expected on the climbs located on the right side of the wall... and somewhere in between is somewhere in between.
Location Approach past the right side climbs,passing along roof above and arrive at a pair of bolted lines starting just off of a boulder at the base of the wall. The right-most of the pair is "Skin The Cat, 11a" The left one is "One Brick Shy, 10c."
Protection 8 bolts to a bolted anchor. A stick-clip for the first bolt is advised by one of the older guidebooks, so perhaps it would be a good idea for beginner's and people still working the grade.
| Comments on One Brick Shy |
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 26, 2009
| This starts off with some burly, bouldery moves off of a large boulder. Backs off immediately to jugs and edges. If you can't find a hold on this route, move slightly up or down, left or right, there are jugs/edges everywhere. Also, if you have any troubles, move left. At the last bolt, you can go right, my friend Jen swears it was easy. I made a traverse on delicate feet to the left, stemmed off the detached block, grabbed the chicken heads and manteled up to the anchors.
This is a really fun climb, felt rather soft for a 10c. |
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