One Armed Giant 5.10d PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas, 1982 |
| Season: | morning sun |
| Submitted By: | Russ Walling on Feb 10, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Will established in the chimney
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Description A fantastic exercise in flare and effort. The pro is minimal to scant to get into the initial maw. Once established in the chimney, there is very good pro in the back. There is an immediate exposure factor for the opening moves as this route sits on top of an existing deep chimney. If you fall in the first 10 feet, you go 25ft to some jagged blocks. Cool!
More info here: WideFetish.com
Location This route lies just right of Quasar and almost shares the start. See the overview pic for Tiger Rocks.
Descend to climbers right along the summit slabs to an easy scramble down to the base.
Protection A few sm/med wired nuts
1 each from 1.5" to 3"
1 3.5" cam
2 4" cams
1 6" cam
1 8" to 9" something
Med cams (1.5" to 3") for the anchor. If toproping, bring a short extendo runner.
Me doing some fancy rope tricks to get going.
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innovative claustrophobia test position
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Me getting around the crux constriction.
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Will getting set up in the opening flare.
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BETA PHOTO: One Armed Giant.
Photo by Blitzo.
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| Comments on One Armed Giant |
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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Mar 2, 2010
| Turned out to be a lot less awkward than I expected. The roof/constriction takes really good handjams so you can pretty much haul yourself up with your arms, and a hueco in just the right spot helps you get situated. Not too much chimney technique required. Once you're in it, it's a lengthy wiggle to the top, but it gets easier as you go.
Did this one on toprope. The move to the first handjam (and first gear placement) would be way committing on lead. |
By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| Burly, but very good. I was happy with doubles from .75 to 2 and singles of 3, 4, 5 and 6. Getting onto the hueco was the technical crux, having the juice to get out of the overhanging part the physical. To the first good piece is intimidating but pretty easy. Oh, one last thing, I went left side in, not sure if that was the best way to go, but it worked. |
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