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One-Armed Bandit 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 490', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry Hamilton, Tom Kaufman. March 1976
Page Views: 891
Submitted By: Matt Kuehl on Jan 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Second belay on one armed bandit. Nice to have the...

Description 

An enjoyable route that is a little more involved than Olive Oil. Expect ocassionaly poor protection and maybe some fragile rock.

Pitch 1 - 70' 5.7 Climb a left-facing corner to a bushy ledge, traverse right along the ledge and belay.

Pitch 2 - 100' 5.7 Climb onto the top of the pillar, zig zagging up ramp until it is possible to trend up and right across the face and belay above a big corner.

Pitch 3 - 80' 5.7 Climb the crack above to a belay in the base of a loose chimney. (bring wide gear or belay off slung block)

Pitch 4 - 140' 5.7 Continue up the chimney, and when it opens up climb the right facing corner above and the face to its right to reach a belay.

Pitch 5 - 110' 5.7 Climb the right facing corner above to a large ledge. Scramble up and right finishing at the top of Olive Oil.


Location 

100 yards up the gully from Olive Oil is a brown left facing corner. Just to the left is a short steep right-facing corner formed by the right side of a small buttress/pillar. The route starts 50 yards further up the gully from this feature and is in the corner formed by the left side the pillar.


Protection 

Single rack to to 3", optional 7"



Photos of One-Armed Bandit Slideshow Add Photo
Standing at the base of One Armed Bandit, looking up the route.
BETA PHOTO: Standing at the base of One Armed Bandit, looking ...
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By Billcoe
Mar 31, 2012

Did this with my son and his buddy last week. Singles to 2" Camalot size and single nuts including single small wireds -DMM brass Wired offset sizes would have been perfect. Touching any rock inside of the chimney seemed to make it fall down onto the belayer in large chunks. I knocked more rocks on my partners out of this chimney than I have in my last 30 years of climbing total. The second dropped even more than that, almost took out the lad who was ducking under protection and the rocks did chop my rope where a single wayward loop was in the wrong place.... my son said:-( Supertopo listed 5-7" cams as optional), and if you don't have that it's a 30' ledge fall. I suspect that could have been somewhat avoided with some tiny wireds which I'd take next time.....wish that I'd had them....Otherwise...... I liked the route.

BTW, the "5.6" chimney was deemed tough by all of us.

By Marilyn Geninatti
Apr 21, 2012

Awesome route, clean rock, interesting pithes, varied.
A little hard to know where to go at times with many options.
Agree with first move off deck of last pitch.
we liked as well if not better than Olive Oil
mg

By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 18, 2012

Not as loose or runout as SuperTopo suggests. Definitely not as good as Olive Oil, but a worthwhile moderate route, especially in winter, with good sun exposure, a fast approach and descent, and great belay ledges. Leave the #6 at home. This one climbs pretty easy for 5.7.

By Ben Townsend
Nov 6, 2013

Short, well-protected 5.7 cruxes at the start of the first pitch, and near the end of the last pitch. Otherwise, cruiser terrain with intermittent protection, occasionally on the fragile side. We took a #4 and #5 Camalot and placed them a couple of times; nice, but definitely optional.