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Claim Jumper Wall
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One Armed Bandit 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Chuck Scott, May 2001
Page Views: 3,671
Submitted By: C Miller on May 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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Its a must when you reach the top.

Description 

Start up flakes and broken cracks, pull a small roof, and then head up a short section of slab to reach a smooth face. Above the slab work up and left on hidden slots and jugs to a finishing mantle or rockover onto a small ledge with the anchors. Fairly long and varied, making this a recommended climb for the grade.

Location 

This is the next bolted line right of Claim Jumper and climbs the outer face of a narrow pillar between two wide cracks.

Protection 

8 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of One Armed Bandit Slideshow Add Photo
Rope gunning one armed bandit. In the middle area. <br /> <br />(Jackie Trejo)
Rope gunning one armed bandit. In the middle area....
Chris on the final exposed section of One Armed Bandit.
Chris on the final exposed section of One Armed Ba...
Chris and his favorite hat leading 1 Armed Bandit
Chris and his favorite hat leading 1 Armed Bandit
At the 2nd bolt on One Armed Bandit (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
At the 2nd bolt on One Armed Bandit (5.10a), Holco...
One Armed Bandit (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
One Armed Bandit (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles...
Fun roof on one armed bandit
Fun roof on one armed bandit
Near the top of One Armed Bandit (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Near the top of One Armed Bandit (5.10a), Holcomb ...
One Armed Bandit bolt locations.
BETA PHOTO: One Armed Bandit bolt locations.
The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
AM cruising through one armed bandit
AM cruising through one armed bandit
D close to the top of One Armed Bandit.
D close to the top of One Armed Bandit.

Comments on One Armed Bandit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This is a very fun route. A bit sequential before the last bolt can get one pretty pumped before making the last clip.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 14, 2007

This one is a good route on pretty darn good rock.
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 21, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great exposed position.
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Just when you expect to finish up on this route, it surprises you with a flat, polished top out. The small roof and the moves through the last 2 bolts are the highlight! Agree with Adam's comment about the sequential moves near the top.....
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The short roof and technical face towards the top make this a must do for the budding leader or oldtimers alike.
By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Found out the anchors use to be where the last bolts located. Top out is unnecessary and wasn't fun at all. Should have ended on the face climb. Fun nonetheless with a tricky roof section. Everyone I climbed with had different beta for it
By John Dubya
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hardest 10a at Holcomb. Claimjumper 10a just to the left felt easier for sure.
By Coon
Aug 4, 2014

Top out is in an awkward position and I agree it'd be a better route if it ended at the last bolt. Still fun getting into that slot and body jamming to clip the anchors.

Beware theres a super chalked right facing flake at the very top thats gonna break at any moment. It's tempting but probably wise to stay off of it.