By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Oct 4, 2012
| germsauce wrote: Get psyched, or fire sale your gear: Ondra climbed 5.15c yesterday. www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67488
I dont care who you are, thats impressive right there. So who going to be the next climber that can varify that 5.15c rating...ohhhh This outa be good. | 
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By Sam Stephens
Oct 4, 2012
| Since when did the hardest pitch of a route not determine its grade? |
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By JulianB
From Florence, SC
Oct 4, 2012
| Sam Stephens wrote: Since when did the hardest pitch of a route not determine its grade?
When the entire thing is climbed in a single go without weighting the rope, ergo as one continuous pitch. |
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By Boots Ylectric
From Schaumburg IL
Oct 4, 2012
| Unreal. Love him, hate him, love sport, hate sport, it's damn impressive. Some of these FA's tha that have been going down lately can't even begin to be done justice through video. |
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By CJC
Oct 4, 2012
| sorry no fire sale
can't even relate to that in any way
plus he screams like serena williams! |
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Oct 4, 2012
| Jeff J wrote: So who going to be the next climber that can varify that 5.15c rating...ohhhh This outa be good.
I'm still waiting for the next climber to verify that Jumbo Love isn't 5.15c. We won't know until someone else goes and sends it.
Meanwhile, Adam Ondra finally has a bit of a man voice. |
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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Oct 4, 2012
| Who would've thought the alleged first 5.15c would be on granite?
Interest fact for the geology geeks out there (Like myself) |
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By Peter Adamson
Oct 4, 2012
| Dom wrote: Who would've thought the alleged first 5.15c would be on granite? Interest fact for the geology geeks out there (Like myself)
Looks like more of a gneiss (without close inspection). A lot of the banded formations aren't really typical of granite. |
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By Adam Leedy
From Austin, TX
Oct 4, 2012
| Ryan Williams wrote: I'm still waiting for the next climber to verify that Jumbo Love isn't 5.15c.
The first thought that crossed my mind. Why hasn't Ondra given it a go? |
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By Tom Fralich
From Fresno, CA
Oct 4, 2012
| Sam Stephens wrote: Since when did the hardest pitch of a route not determine its grade?
I thought the same thing. My impression is that it is the hardest move that determines the rating of a climb. A climb with one 5.10b move is 5.10b. A climb that has many moves at 5.10b is still 5.10b, although probably "harder." So while the link-up may be the "hardest route in the world," the rating should not change. |
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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Oct 4, 2012
| Tom Fralich wrote: I thought the same thing. My impression is that it is the hardest move that determines the rating of a climb. A climb with one 5.10b move is 5.10b. A climb that has many moves at 5.10b is still 5.10b, although probably "harder." So while the link-up may be the "hardest route in the world," the rating should not change.
Oh brother, not this debate again. |
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Oct 4, 2012
| Tom Fralich wrote: I thought the same thing. My impression is that it is the hardest move that determines the rating of a climb. A climb with one 5.10b move is 5.10b. A climb that has many moves at 5.10b is still 5.10b, although probably "harder." So while the link-up may be the "hardest route in the world," the rating should not change.
Going by the hardest move alone is an old, dicredited way of determining grade. That would be like saying doing 1 pull up is the same as doing 100. |
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By Tom Fralich
From Fresno, CA
Oct 4, 2012
| M Sprague wrote: Going by the hardest move alone is an old, dicredited way of determining grade. That would be like saying doing 1 pull up is the same as doing 100.
Well, here's what Wikipedia says regarding the YDS:
The system originally considered only the technical difficulty of the hardest move on a route. For example a route of mainly 5.7 moves but with one 5.11b move would be graded 5.11b and a climb that consisted of 5.11b moves all along its route, would also be 5.11b. Modern application of climbing grades, especially on climbs at the upper end of the scale (>5.10) also consider how sustained or strenuous a climb is, in addition to the difficulty of the single hardest move.
So I guess that settles it. |
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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Oct 4, 2012
| Tom Fralich wrote: I thought the same thing. My impression is that it is the hardest move that determines the rating of a climb. A climb with one 5.10b move is 5.10b. A climb that has many moves at 5.10b is still 5.10b, although probably "harder." So while the link-up may be the "hardest route in the world," the rating should not change.
It should also be noted that Ondra rated his route 9b+, not 5.15c. As such, any question of the absurd and outdated historical artifacts of the YDS (rating based on hardest move, etc.) are totally irrelevant here. The rules of the French scale are relevant, not the rules of the YDS, for this route. In the French scale, there is no question that pump/endurance factors are considered in the rating. |
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By Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Oct 4, 2012
| chufftard wrote: If he didn't place pro, then it aint climbing.
Jeez, first the "hardest move" guy, now this. The baiting is outrageous in this thread. |
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By bearbreeder
Oct 4, 2012
| some people just cant accept the fact that a screaming 19 year old kid can climb number grades harder than they ever will ... and will do more for the sport of climbing than they ever will as well ... |
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By J Q
Oct 4, 2012
| Hardest move guys rarely climb any hard moves and that is why they are continually confused about sport grading.
Chufftard lives up to his alias.
Adam insults nooby climbers by sheer climbing competence so they feel the need to make comments about his volume.
If you continually judge a race car as based on it's appearance, yet the car keeps winning races, you don't understand racing. |
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By Eric Engberg
Oct 4, 2012
| At best a pink point. Probably stick clipped the start too. |
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By Tom Fralich
From Fresno, CA
Oct 4, 2012
| Joe Virtanen wrote: Jeez, first the "hardest move" guy, now this. The baiting is outrageous in this thread.
True, but it's just so easy...the ladders...the perma-draws...the link-ups...the stick clips...
...oh, and the egos. |
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By J Q
Oct 4, 2012
| Tom Fralich wrote: True, but it's just so easy...the ladders...the perma-draws...the link-ups...the stick clips... ...oh, and the egos.
It sounds like your 5.9 ego is quite involved here as well. It must be hard thing to keep claiming that the kings clothing is so fine. |
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By Adam B
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Oct 4, 2012
| I fall down just trying to imagine how hard this guy climbs! |
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By Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Oct 4, 2012
| It boggles my mind. The grade/difficulty difference from 5.9 to 5.12c is huge. He's climbing that same grade/difficulty above 5.12c to 5.15c; 12 grades. I can't imagine how hard that must be. Amazing. |
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By S.Stelli
From Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 4, 2012
| Jon Moen wrote: It should also be noted that Ondra rated his route 9b+, not 5.15c. As such, any question of the absurd and outdated historical artifacts of the YDS (rating based on hardest move, etc.) are totally irrelevant here.
This.
Also - congrats to Adam Ondra - pretty intense! Always inspiring to see someone at the top of our game pushing it. |
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