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Ondra climbs 5.15c
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Oct 4, 2012
Hippos kill people
Get psyched, or fire sale your gear: Ondra climbed 5.15c yesterday.

ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?i...
germsauce
Joined Jun 14, 2010
66 points
Oct 4, 2012
germsauce wrote:
Get psyched, or fire sale your gear: Ondra climbed 5.15c yesterday. ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?i...



I dont care who you are, thats impressive right there. So who going to be the next climber that can varify that 5.15c rating...ohhhh This outa be good.
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
108 points
Oct 4, 2012
Top half of Melifluous
Since when did the hardest pitch of a route not determine its grade? Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
768 points
Oct 4, 2012
Mt. Rainier summit.
Sam Stephens wrote:
Since when did the hardest pitch of a route not determine its grade?


When the entire thing is climbed in a single go without weighting the rope, ergo as one continuous pitch.
JulianB
From Florence, SC
Joined Aug 22, 2011
15 points
Oct 4, 2012
Top half of Melifluous
Thanks for the clarification Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
768 points
Oct 4, 2012
Goofin on the Frogs Head Arch before I rap off.
Unreal. Love him, hate him, love sport, hate sport, it's damn impressive. Some of these FA's tha that have been going down lately can't even begin to be done justice through video. Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Joined Apr 11, 2012
155 points
Oct 4, 2012
Mashers Tower
sorry no fire sale

can't even relate to that in any way
plus he screams like serena williams!
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
162 points
Administrator
Oct 4, 2012
El Chorro
Jeff J wrote:
So who going to be the next climber that can varify that 5.15c rating...ohhhh This outa be good.


I'm still waiting for the next climber to verify that Jumbo Love isn't 5.15c. We won't know until someone else goes and sends it.

Meanwhile, Adam Ondra finally has a bit of a man voice.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Administrator
Oct 4, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-
Who would've thought the alleged first 5.15c would be on granite?

Interest fact for the geology geeks out there (Like myself)
Dom
From New Brunswick Canada
Joined Dec 8, 2007
1,173 points
Oct 4, 2012
Dom wrote:
Who would've thought the alleged first 5.15c would be on granite? Interest fact for the geology geeks out there (Like myself)


Looks like more of a gneiss (without close inspection). A lot of the banded formations aren't really typical of granite.
P. A.
Joined Jun 8, 2009
133 points
Oct 4, 2012
Ryan Williams wrote:
I'm still waiting for the next climber to verify that Jumbo Love isn't 5.15c.


The first thought that crossed my mind. Why hasn't Ondra given it a go?
Adam Leedy
From Austin, TX
Joined Sep 18, 2008
772 points
Oct 4, 2012
Sam Stephens wrote:
Since when did the hardest pitch of a route not determine its grade?


I thought the same thing. My impression is that it is the hardest move that determines the rating of a climb. A climb with one 5.10b move is 5.10b. A climb that has many moves at 5.10b is still 5.10b, although probably "harder." So while the link-up may be the "hardest route in the world," the rating should not change.
Tom Fralich
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Nov 12, 2006
62 points
Oct 4, 2012
Tom Fralich wrote:
I thought the same thing. My impression is that it is the hardest move that determines the rating of a climb. A climb with one 5.10b move is 5.10b. A climb that has many moves at 5.10b is still 5.10b, although probably "harder." So while the link-up may be the "hardest route in the world," the rating should not change.


Oh brother, not this debate again.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Administrator
Oct 4, 2012
The Hammer
Tom Fralich wrote:
I thought the same thing. My impression is that it is the hardest move that determines the rating of a climb. A climb with one 5.10b move is 5.10b. A climb that has many moves at 5.10b is still 5.10b, although probably "harder." So while the link-up may be the "hardest route in the world," the rating should not change.

Going by the hardest move alone is an old, dicredited way of determining grade. That would be like saying doing 1 pull up is the same as doing 100.
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,453 points
Oct 4, 2012
M Sprague wrote:
Going by the hardest move alone is an old, dicredited way of determining grade. That would be like saying doing 1 pull up is the same as doing 100.


Well, here's what Wikipedia says regarding the YDS:

The system originally considered only the technical difficulty of the hardest move on a route. For example a route of mainly 5.7 moves but with one 5.11b move would be graded 5.11b and a climb that consisted of 5.11b moves all along its route, would also be 5.11b. Modern application of climbing grades, especially on climbs at the upper end of the scale (>5.10) also consider how sustained or strenuous a climb is, in addition to the difficulty of the single hardest move.

So I guess that settles it.
Tom Fralich
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Nov 12, 2006
62 points
Oct 4, 2012
Tom Fralich wrote:
I thought the same thing. My impression is that it is the hardest move that determines the rating of a climb. A climb with one 5.10b move is 5.10b. A climb that has many moves at 5.10b is still 5.10b, although probably "harder." So while the link-up may be the "hardest route in the world," the rating should not change.


It should also be noted that Ondra rated his route 9b+, not 5.15c. As such, any question of the absurd and outdated historical artifacts of the YDS (rating based on hardest move, etc.) are totally irrelevant here. The rules of the French scale are relevant, not the rules of the YDS, for this route. In the French scale, there is no question that pump/endurance factors are considered in the rating.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Oct 4, 2012
Pit BBQ
chufftard wrote:
If he didn't place pro, then it aint climbing.


Jeez, first the "hardest move" guy, now this. The baiting is outrageous in this thread.
Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Joined May 7, 2010
132 points
Oct 4, 2012
some people just cant accept the fact that a screaming 19 year old kid can climb number grades harder than they ever will ... and will do more for the sport of climbing than they ever will as well ... bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,876 points
Oct 4, 2012
Me again!
Hardest move guys rarely climb any hard moves and that is why they are continually confused about sport grading.

Chufftard lives up to his alias.

Adam insults nooby climbers by sheer climbing competence so they feel the need to make comments about his volume.

If you continually judge a race car as based on it's appearance, yet the car keeps winning races, you don't understand racing.
J Q
Joined Mar 11, 2012
48 points
Oct 4, 2012
At best a pink point. Probably stick clipped the start too. Eric Engberg
Joined Apr 28, 2009
2 points
Oct 4, 2012
Joe Virtanen wrote:
Jeez, first the "hardest move" guy, now this. The baiting is outrageous in this thread.


True, but it's just so easy...the ladders...the perma-draws...the link-ups...the stick clips...

...oh, and the egos.
Tom Fralich
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Nov 12, 2006
62 points
Oct 4, 2012
Me again!
Tom Fralich wrote:
True, but it's just so easy...the ladders...the perma-draws...the link-ups...the stick clips... ...oh, and the egos.


It sounds like your 5.9 ego is quite involved here as well. It must be hard thing to keep claiming that the kings clothing is so fine.
J Q
Joined Mar 11, 2012
48 points
Oct 4, 2012
Middle St. Vrain
I fall down just trying to imagine how hard this guy climbs! Adam B
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Joined Oct 14, 2008
199 points
Oct 4, 2012
Summit of Rainier.
It boggles my mind. The grade/difficulty difference from 5.9 to 5.12c is huge. He's climbing that same grade/difficulty above 5.12c to 5.15c; 12 grades. I can't imagine how hard that must be. Amazing. Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jun 3, 2012
136 points
Oct 4, 2012
Jon Moen wrote:
It should also be noted that Ondra rated his route 9b+, not 5.15c. As such, any question of the absurd and outdated historical artifacts of the YDS (rating based on hardest move, etc.) are totally irrelevant here.


This.

Also - congrats to Adam Ondra - pretty intense! Always inspiring to see someone at the top of our game pushing it.
S.Stelli
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Dec 21, 2009
171 points
Oct 4, 2012
Is there footage of the full send, yet? Howrad McGreehan
Joined Sep 25, 2012
4 points


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