Once Upon a Time
||Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Crux ? 1980's Colorado team, Balance of Route Jim Waugh with Frank Valendo and Chris Raypole|
|Season: ||seasonal closures|
|Page Views: ||1,772|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007|
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Cooper Varney leading pitch 4 (5.11-) of Once Upon...
p1, 5.9 crack and flake system leads to main Sorcerer ledge.
p2, An unknown party had made the hard moves up the crack, shallow corner and bailed off once bolts were required. Hard climbing up mostly thin but solid pro leads to a sling belay.
p3, meandering face climbing leads past 5 bolts to a crux "inches" short of the thin ledge leading right to the shared belay with Kingpin. This 5.10 climbing is fully 20' out from last bolt but is an all clean fall if you blow it.
p4, links a feature crack/groove (5.11-) to the crux fist move at the great roof on Coatimundi.
p5, leads up to summit.
Right of Sorcerer corner, left of Kingpin corner are the 2nd and 3rd pitches.
brass nuts and standard GM rack- travel light on p3 lead!!!!
Dec 22, 2010
The face pitch is runout at the top, but on easier ground (5.7-5.8). The crux move comes early in the pitch, and pulls a bulge with a bolt right at you. Not much fear factor on this pitch.