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Once Upon a Time 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Crux ? 1980's Colorado team, Balance of Route Jim Waugh with Frank Valendo and Chris Raypole
Season: seasonal closures
Page Views: 1,399
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007
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Cooper Varney leading pitch 4 (5.11-) of Once Upon...
Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

p1, 5.9 crack and flake system leads to main Sorcerer ledge.
p2, An unknown party had made the hard moves up the crack, shallow corner and bailed off once bolts were required. Hard climbing up mostly thin but solid pro leads to a sling belay.
p3, meandering face climbing leads past 5 bolts to a crux "inches" short of the thin ledge leading right to the shared belay with Kingpin. This 5.10 climbing is fully 20' out from last bolt but is an all clean fall if you blow it.
p4, links a feature crack/groove (5.11-) to the crux fist move at the great roof on Coatimundi.
p5, leads up to summit.


Location 

Right of Sorcerer corner, left of Kingpin corner are the 2nd and 3rd pitches.


Protection 

brass nuts and standard GM rack- travel light on p3 lead!!!!



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By KyleKent
Dec 22, 2010

The face pitch is runout at the top, but on easier ground (5.7-5.8). The crux move comes early in the pitch, and pulls a bulge with a bolt right at you. Not much fear factor on this pitch.