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Routes Sorted
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2150 A.D. 
5.10 Crack 
5.10a corner 
5.11 Arete 
5.9 crack 
A Sharp 
Abu Simbel  
Aerial Solution 
Alfalfa Omega 
Another Bolted Crack 
Apple Cracks, The 
Aspiring Frog 
B Flat 
Baby Face Nelson 
Back To The Future 
Bambi Meets Godzilla 
Binge and Purge 
Birthing the Piggy 
Bits and Pieces 
Black Hole Sun 
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) 
C Major 
Cat Ate My Homework, The 
Cerebral Brain Freeze 
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull 
Concentrated Weirdness 
Courage and Enlightenment 
Crab Nation 
Dancin` Shoes 
Dave Dangle 
Deconstructing Harry 
Disciples of Hell 
Doggie Style 
Don Show, The 
Dust Lust 
Emperor's Robe 
Energy Before Ecstasy 
Ethics? What Ethics? 
Flesh Tuxedo 
From Russia With Love 
Future Fossil 
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) 
Generation X 
Heaven is Waiting 
Heavy Weather 
Hostile Crankover 
Ice Cream Hangover 
Incredible Weather 
Knot Too Many Roaches 
Ladies' Night In Buffalo 
Large Marge 
Le Petit Verdon 
Le Pincher 
Lesser of Two Evils 
Let Me Out 
Lick and a Promise 
Lime Street 
Living in America 
Lost Planet Airman 
Loves Me Like a Rock 
Lynch Mob 
Ma Barker 
Machine Gun Kelly 
Mighty Mouse 
Mismatched Partners 
Neopolitan Headrush 
New Comer (aka New Corner) 
No Future for the Timid 
No Rest For the Wicked 
Number 1 Super Guy 
On the Mushroom 
Once Upon a Time 
Pennies and Piggydust 
Peter Pan 
Pig City Nights 
Pink Torpedo 
Piņon Slalom 
Plate Tectonics 
Poncho and the Three Perverts 
Power Broker 
Pretty Boy Floyd 
Primal Scream 
Project Focus 
Puking Yuppies 
Purple Packer Smacker 
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) 
Richter Scale 
Rock Frog 
Scarf and Barf 
Season Down Under 
Shady Character 
Sonic Youth 
Sparkle In The Rain 
Starving Hippies 
Staying Power 
Stick It 
Stomach Stapler 
Stormy Weather 
Stranger in Moscow 
Sty in the Sky 
Surreal Estate 
Sweepings, The 
Taping Tendons 
Team Anorexia 
Tendon Respite 
This is Your Brain 
Thunder Tactics 
Thunder Thighs 
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) 
Tribal Boundary 
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) 
Unknown 5.7 
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) 
Unusual Weather 
War In The Banks 
Welcome to Shelf Road 
What's Biting Me? 
Who Asked You? 
Why Left 
Will Purr For Treats 
You Were Meant For Me 
Unsorted Routes:

Once Upon a Time 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,466
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Evan takes some backup pro on the 5.hard.


This is located just around the corner to the left from Surreal Estate Wall. Climbs just right of Sparkle in the Rain (12c) up a heavily pocketed, left-facing crack, then cut right to a shelf and then again up. The crux sequence leaves a solid flake on thin holds up a shallow corner. Nice moves continue up to the anchor.


8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Once Upon a Time Slideshow Add Photo
Evan begins the first section of Once Upon a Time. Evan: "Life's too short not to go big...gotta go big, gotta go big."
Evan begins the first section of Once Upon a Time....
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 25, 2001

Let's assume that if we use a star system in the context of this site, it reflects personal opinion and not consensus. Once Upon A Time starts several feet left of Stormy Weather, and is usually better rated than Stormy. Run up a seam to a right angling system of pockets and blocky edges. Hang further right to more straight forward face climbing and a few thinish pockets. Never much harder than upper 5.10, the climbing on Once Upon a Time is decent, but not, in my mind, as satisfying as the lines on the Surreal Estate Wall. It can be used to set up a TR on Sparkle In The Rain which has a beautiful system of edges pulling the crux bulge. Without Sparkle sitting just left, Once Upon A Time would probably not see a lot of traffic. However, the chance to get the draws on Sparkle is way too much to pass up.

By Lon Black
Dec 30, 2002

My partner and I both enjoyed this route. It flows well. The first half allows for stemming, mantels and underclings. The right part of the flake after you start moving right is broken. Be careful not to use this as a hold and pull it down on your belayer. Moving above the second pointed flake can be done by just cranking or with a heel hook. Good route.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

The holds got thin after the large flake. I think the bolts were placed too far left. It seemed like I was holding on with my left and cross clipping with my right for the last 3-4 bolts. Fun climb though.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I think this route is falling apart.... I really enjoyed it when I first did it 4 years ago, but since then, I feel like a lot of the rock is very suspect. Watch out for some big loose blocks moving to the anchor, spicy.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 15, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Did this route yesterday, and didn't notice any large, loose blocks up high, and neither did my partner. Could be that I just wasn't paying attention though.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 21, 2011

The clip after standing was difficult off of thin tips. Higher up was scary for me with another difficult clip out left leaning off of sloped side pull.