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No Future for the Timid S 
No Rest For the Wicked S 
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On the Mushroom S 
Once Upon a Time S 
Otis S 
Peking S 
Pennies and Piggydust T 
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War In The Banks S 
Welcome to Shelf Road S 
What's Biting Me? S 
Who Asked You? S 
Why Left S 
Will Purr For Treats S 
You Were Meant For Me S 
Unsorted Routes:

Once Upon a Time 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,496
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Evan takes some backup pro on the 5.hard.

Description 

This is located just around the corner to the left from Surreal Estate Wall. Climbs just right of Sparkle in the Rain (12c) up a heavily pocketed, left-facing crack, then cut right to a shelf and then again up. The crux sequence leaves a solid flake on thin holds up a shallow corner. Nice moves continue up to the anchor.


Protection 

8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Once Upon a Time Slideshow Add Photo
Evan begins the first section of Once Upon a Time. Evan: "Life's too short not to go big...gotta go big, gotta go big."
Evan begins the first section of Once Upon a Time....
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 25, 2001

Let's assume that if we use a star system in the context of this site, it reflects personal opinion and not consensus. Once Upon A Time starts several feet left of Stormy Weather, and is usually better rated than Stormy. Run up a seam to a right angling system of pockets and blocky edges. Hang further right to more straight forward face climbing and a few thinish pockets. Never much harder than upper 5.10, the climbing on Once Upon a Time is decent, but not, in my mind, as satisfying as the lines on the Surreal Estate Wall. It can be used to set up a TR on Sparkle In The Rain which has a beautiful system of edges pulling the crux bulge. Without Sparkle sitting just left, Once Upon A Time would probably not see a lot of traffic. However, the chance to get the draws on Sparkle is way too much to pass up.

By Lon Black
Dec 30, 2002

My partner and I both enjoyed this route. It flows well. The first half allows for stemming, mantels and underclings. The right part of the flake after you start moving right is broken. Be careful not to use this as a hold and pull it down on your belayer. Moving above the second pointed flake can be done by just cranking or with a heel hook. Good route.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The holds got thin after the large flake. I think the bolts were placed too far left. It seemed like I was holding on with my left and cross clipping with my right for the last 3-4 bolts. Fun climb though.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I think this route is falling apart.... I really enjoyed it when I first did it 4 years ago, but since then, I feel like a lot of the rock is very suspect. Watch out for some big loose blocks moving to the anchor, spicy.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 15, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Did this route yesterday, and didn't notice any large, loose blocks up high, and neither did my partner. Could be that I just wasn't paying attention though.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 21, 2011

The clip after standing was difficult off of thin tips. Higher up was scary for me with another difficult clip out left leaning off of sloped side pull.