Once is Enough
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2 long pitches of ledgy/slabby climbing lead up to a steep headwall with a large roof on the right. Follow your nose on these approach pitches, a good mix of bolts and gear. P3-Climb up well featured rock that gradually steepens to vertical. Start clipping some bolts as you move into a well protected crux. A few hard moves into a good rest followed by a easy, but heady and poorly protect topout. If this pitch was on the ground it would be very popular.
After the approach trail you come to the impasse where you have to go right or left. Go right and uphill for maybe 10 minutes, till you have a prominent buttress on your left. Climb the right hand side of this buttress.
Single Rack with mostly 2' draws and some QD's for the crux.
By burlap submariner
Dec 22, 2009
very fun route, alpine feel but with out the bad rock quality, easy 15 min. approach. a single rack and quickdraws and slings will do you justice and keep the weight down.
From: North Kingstown, RI
Aug 22, 2016
The start is hard to find (for me anyway). The buttress is not so prominent. If you scramble up left around the corner of the buttress a short ways you can see the first bolt. Mostly 5.7 climbing until the crux headwall. Appropriately named.