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On vacation in Maine and looking for climbing partners
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By SCherry
From San Diego, CA
Jul 10, 2013
Trying to onsight 12a at Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

I'll be in the Maine/NH area from July 17-30. Looking for partners for day trips (Shagg, Rumney, Cathedral, Acadia). I climb up to 5.11a trad and mid-5.12 sport. I have gear but am trying not to fly with all of it unless necessary.


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By Eric Chabot
From Thetford Ctr, VT
Jul 10, 2013

I go to Rumney a lot. PM me and I'll climb with you there at least, possibly the other spots you mentioned. I can make it up most sport 11s on lead, lead 9+/10a on gear (have rack).


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By john weaver
Jul 11, 2013

we will be at shagg this and next weekend! feel free to join


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By mtndoc
Jul 12, 2013

We went out Shag last week and climbed Little Bald MTN. Took the route up from Little Concord Pond but did not find the trail to the Right which heads to Shag Crag. Beta please.


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By Taylor Roy
From Boulder, Co
Jul 12, 2013

Hey Sacha,

Leah and I will be in Maine between July 18-26. We are planning to climb at Shagg Crag. You should join us! Not sure what days we will be there but let's keep in touch. Look forward to seeing you.


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By oats and honey
From Nh
Jul 13, 2013
pway

looking to boulder at all? or just rope up


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By SCherry
From San Diego, CA
Jul 15, 2013
Trying to onsight 12a at Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

oats and honey - I'd be down for some boulder sessions but have no pads with me.

I'm vacationing at Popham Beach (about an hour north of Portland) so anything thats close by I would love to check out for an afternoon or morning.

I tried to find the boulders at Bradbury Mtn a few years ago. Found some rocks but not sure if it was the right ones.

Where do you like to boulder at in Maine?


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 15, 2013
Stoked...

SCherry wrote:
oats and honey - I'd be down for some boulder sessions but have no pads with me. I'm vacationing at Popham Beach (about an hour north of Portland) so anything thats close by I would love to check out for an afternoon or morning. I tried to find the boulders at Bradbury Mtn a few years ago. Found some rocks but not sure if it was the right ones. Where do you like to boulder at in Maine?


Boulders are on the back left @ Bradbury. They can be a PITA to find. Shagg on the other hand you really have to unscrew your eyeballs and put them in your back pocket while ur hiking to miss (its the peak!).

From: archive.newenglandbouldering.com/maine/me.html


Bradbury Mountain

Tim Toula's Rock'n Road gives the following directions to this state park: take the Freeport exit off of I95. Go north on Dyer to Highway 9. Follow 9 for approximately 4 miles. Turn right and go 0.5 mile to the park entrance. A visiting boulderer from Arizona e-mailed us the following directions: "On your way in ask the ranger for a map- Park at the Bradbury Mountain parking lot, walk through the play ground to campground parking- take the South Ridge trail for about 0.5 a mile up hill (you will know if you are on the right trail if you walk up three log stair cases). The trail will take a sharp right, when it does there will be a slab cliff about 20 feet high on the right side of the trail. Turn so that your back is to the slab -here is where you can get lost- walk straight down the rocky slope into the woods (on the map provided by the ranger there is a binoculars symbolizing a lookout point here). The boulders will appear after about a five minutes walk deep into the woods.
Rock'n Road does say that this area may sport some of Maine's most difficult bouldering, so it may be worth the effort to try and find it. It also says the rock is rough. Greg Shyloski and Dave Sharrat have recently added some new problems here, the best of which are Twisted, V5/6, and Love Life, V4.


Basically they are on the back left side and some are on private property. You go down the hill a aways to a single erratic and then traverse right to get to the main boulders. Basically go back left.


For Shagg... well here's a map... It's the gigantic overhanging wall. The main trail goes to the top... so if you miss the climber's trail (i think like 10min from the top), the main trail will take you to the top of the cliff. From here walk down the side of the cliff to the base of it... wala! Done! Arrived! Not Lost! It's a bit of a hike, esp if ur hungover!

Shagg
Shagg


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By Kevin Pula
Jul 15, 2013

I'm vacationing in Acadia this week as well. I'm looking for a partner for a day at Otter Cliffs. Would you be interested in that? Will climb 5.11 on sport but lead only about 5.9 on trad. I be up for a TR session too just to get some sea cliff climbing in. Didn't brig a rope or rack out just harness an shoes hoping to find a partner.

Kevin


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 15, 2013
Stoked...

Kevin Pula wrote:
I'm vacationing in Acadia this week as well. I'm looking for a partner for a day at Otter Cliffs. Would you be interested in that? Will climb 5.11 on sport but lead only about 5.9 on trad. I be up for a TR session too just to get some sea cliff climbing in. Didn't brig a rope or rack out just harness an shoes hoping to find a partner. Kevin


Otters is also great for rope solo'ing - no partners needed. U could probably rent a rope for a day too.


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By mtndoc
Jul 16, 2013

We have a group heading to Acadia on Sat & Sun. Planning to climb Otter Cliffs as well. We have a rope and lead climbing gear. Come join the party!

Thanks for Shagg beta.


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By steitz
From midcoast, maine
Jul 16, 2013

To the guy at popham, you should head up to Camden. There's also some decent boulders in the woods near you, check out rc.com


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