|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
May 15, 2013
Good bolt(not needed, bomber #4 camalot available) protects the start of overhanging hand stacks(invert?) till you hit the undercling horn. Thin hands around the death flake to a good finger lock, then wide #3 camalots to the Captian Ahab belly flop finish. 2 buttonhead bolts for anchor sans chains. We left a few biners but rapping off caused severe twirlybird rope action. Bring some chain if you have it. Pretty burly route as its short but overhangs most of the way. Tape the crap out of your hands or the crack will tear the crap out of you.
Great gear the whole way: 1 #4 camalot(if you're a purist and don't clip the bolt), doubles #1-#3 camalots and singles .3-.5 camalots will give you plenty of gear options.
Of note, there is a newish looking bolt on the left side of the death flake suggesting someone has indeed thrutched up that horrific looking crack, or as the ruckmans put it, "pretty funkadelic".