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> Amon Rûdh
On the Virg
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.9 from 9
votes
Routes in Amon Rûdh
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Kolibri Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Mormegil, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A1- |
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On the Virg T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slabs of Nim, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Aaron Black, Colin Dionne, Victor Ting, Kris Wild |
| Page Views: | 6,646 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Addy on Feb 6, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Logging Roads - Restricted Access
Details
Logging road access is before 5am and after 6pm during the week. Weekends and statutory holidays have 24 hour access. If you are unsure about the access, ask before you go.
Description
Amazing crack climbing in a very secluded spot. Leads to some slab climbing with sparse bolts (5.10-). Route finding and easier sections near the top.
Location
New Access
From the campground, follow Goat Lake Main to the end; stay right at Dianne branch junction, stay left at D-branch junction. 4x4 required: water bars, creek crossing, landslide path. Watch out for large holes in the road... Before too long you'll reach a clearing, and an ATV trail leading to a bridge over a river.
The trail turnoff is on the right, shortly after the bridge. Follow flagging (mostly pink) up through the forest, generally along the southwest ridge - eventually you'll meandering through stunning old growth forest. You'll reach large boulders around ~1000m elevation, the trail veers right here. There is some misleading flagging that continues directly uphill (if you start following orange, you've gone too far). Trail eventually crosses a large gulley; shortly after this you'll reach Camp Radagast, and then the base of the wall. Traverse the base of the wall for 500m. The route is obvious when you see it.
Old access... (nightmare)
Follow D-branch to a major fork about a mile up from the mainline. Take the left fork, which leads across the bridge to the north side of the D-branch valley, continue up a long water-barred grade until a major gully stops further vehicular access. From your truck begin hiking up the road, after about ½ mile the road forks back to the west. Follow this deactivated spur to its terminus close to the east-end of Amon Rudh. Head up and left through the slash into the old growth forest, continue up and left until it is possible to traverse across to some large boulders in the forest, descend into the gully below the wall. A faint trail leads from the top of the major waterfall through the forest to the start of on the Virg. Approach takes about three hours from the truck.
From the campground, follow Goat Lake Main to the end; stay right at Dianne branch junction, stay left at D-branch junction. 4x4 required: water bars, creek crossing, landslide path. Watch out for large holes in the road... Before too long you'll reach a clearing, and an ATV trail leading to a bridge over a river.
The trail turnoff is on the right, shortly after the bridge. Follow flagging (mostly pink) up through the forest, generally along the southwest ridge - eventually you'll meandering through stunning old growth forest. You'll reach large boulders around ~1000m elevation, the trail veers right here. There is some misleading flagging that continues directly uphill (if you start following orange, you've gone too far). Trail eventually crosses a large gulley; shortly after this you'll reach Camp Radagast, and then the base of the wall. Traverse the base of the wall for 500m. The route is obvious when you see it.
Old access... (nightmare)
Follow D-branch to a major fork about a mile up from the mainline. Take the left fork, which leads across the bridge to the north side of the D-branch valley, continue up a long water-barred grade until a major gully stops further vehicular access. From your truck begin hiking up the road, after about ½ mile the road forks back to the west. Follow this deactivated spur to its terminus close to the east-end of Amon Rudh. Head up and left through the slash into the old growth forest, continue up and left until it is possible to traverse across to some large boulders in the forest, descend into the gully below the wall. A faint trail leads from the top of the major waterfall through the forest to the start of on the Virg. Approach takes about three hours from the truck.
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