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On the Up and Up 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,487
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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It looks like a nice fit. Getting ready to pull o...

Description 

Looking left of a large pillar, you will see a large hands crack with a huge pod about 15 feet up. This is it. Crux is getting out of the pod and back into the hand crack. Fun climb for those with large hands! People with smaller seem to struggle a bit.

Protection 

Pro: Used #2 Camalot down low and 3s to the chains. Bolt anchors.


Photos of On the Up and Up Slideshow Add Photo
long shot down the dirt road in IC
long shot down the dirt road in IC
A photo showing the location of the second anchor ...
BETA PHOTO: A photo showing the location of the second anchor ...
Tony Bubb just at the first Crux of 'On The Up and...
Tony Bubb just at the first Crux of 'On The Up and...
Tonya belaying for someone climbing, On the Up and...
Tonya belaying for someone climbing, On the Up and...
Big hands are very helpful in getting out of the r...
Big hands are very helpful in getting out of the r...
out of the pod and makin my way up...
out of the pod and makin my way up...
Tony leading On the Up and Up.
Tony leading On the Up and Up.
Great route. This was my first trip to the creek.
Great route. This was my first trip to the creek.

Comments on On the Up and Up Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 27, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Hard for small hands. Wear long sleaves or suffer scummies on the forearms. Out of a dozen climbs this weekend, this one scraped me the most.
By Mitch Musci
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 21, 2006

An incredible line and well worth the slog up to the base (approach trails are intermittent and loose). For those looking for a straight-in wide hands crack, this (imo) is on par with Supercrack.
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Mar 26, 2008

There is a second pitch to this route. It is about 60 meters from the ground to the second set of anchors. It is pretty clean of loose rock and still a bit sandy, as it is new. It is long, varied, and pretty hard.

Gear would be 2 60 meter ropes, #.75 (1) #1(1-2) #2 (2-3) #3 (a lot) #3.5 (a lot) #4 (a bunch) #5 (2) #6 (1-2) and I used a #4 big bro.

After the first anchors it becomes wide and undulating, with some offwidth and wide crack climbing though somewhat avoidable by being on the face. It then moves past a few ledges to a short squeeze/thrash of armbar, chickenwing, etc (#6 and big bros here)to a good stance in the squeeze at the top where one can slot a good wide hand jam and pull into the upper splitter which was tight fists/wide hands for me (as a point of reference, I have wide hands in the lower splitter.) Continue up splitter and jog left with a few meters of thinner crack, made easier by good feet. Then up through some wider hands crack to a stance in a chimney, finally climbing up dual cracks around suspect (though seemingly stable while climbing on them, though definitely soft)to a stance with a two bolt anchor (Chain and a cold shut.) 5.11
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

Another great creek splitter. Wider but a good warmm up. Tought to pull the mini stem-box roof. Take plenty of #3 camalots. 3 and 3.5 friends to supplement would also be good. two or 3 #2 camalots are good too. Don't remember taking a new #4. No big bro necessary.

CL
By alf
Nov 17, 2009

as to the last comment...
you did not need any big pro because you did pitch 1 [18 meters].
pitch 1 and 2 are 60 meters in hight, and require a large rack and 2 ropes.

alf
By kevin fox
From: parker
May 17, 2010

the first anchors were removed by hand. the only thing that is left is one bolt. the new anchors are at 60 meters. I kid you not. 60 meters.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 19, 2010

Yep, there is now only one bolt at the top of the 70' first pitch. It is new, and it is good, but it is still only one bolt. I lowered off of it, and had a second rope running through the gear as I cleaned on the lower. This thing should get a second bolt.

There is an ok but not great chockstone next to the bolt which could be slung.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
May 27, 2011

put in new bolt 5/15/11 now its safer. do work to keep it safe for all.
By MTKirk
From: Billings, MT
Apr 2, 2013

Good two bolt anchor at 70 feet as of 3/30/2013. Used a couple of #2 then 6? #3's (could use something in between for 1 or 2 of the #3's). Weird to walk up to a splitter of this quality on Easter weekend and no one else is in sight. The move out of the pod is awesome!