This is the first bolted route on the west end of Dogwood, and is an excellent warmup route for doing MMFM further down the rock. Nice climb if you can manage to do it without the crowd.
The smooth/slimy surface (from water runoff when the water is high)on the first section is no indicator of the remainder of the climb, and the holds that are hard to see from the ground appear out of nowhere once you get closer to them and can see shadow.
I'd be more tempted to give this climb two stars if it weren't so crowded, but I'd definitely recommend climbing it (especially for the reason above).
6 bolts up to the anchors. I found it useful to use a couple of longer quickdraws. The bolt placements are not always in the best location for rope drag.
By Lee Gitlin Sep 16, 2004 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
5.8 sounds about right for this climb but DAMN it's hard to trust your feet! After bolt #2 the rock is not as smooth, so the climbing is more positive.
By Rebecca Airmet From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 28, 2005 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
The bottom section of this climb, to the first bolt, is easily as hard as anything on "I Think I'm Going Bald" or "Unforgiven". The climbing just isn't as sustained. Have your belayer give you a spot if you're leading it.
Did this today, was barely out of the water. We showed up around 8:30 and didn't have another group come until 9:30, but then there were 20 people top-roping the area.
Climbing to the first two bolts is the hard part, after you're on the ledge it's much better. Just have to trust your feet not to slide right off the polished rock.
By Tryhard From: Sandy, UT Jul 15, 2009 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Climbed this route on lead in the hot afternoon sun. River level was low enough to keep rope dry. I was not able to get any shoe friction on the smooth parts, although I did try, and took a clean fall above the 3rd bolt. Try to stay off the smooth stuff and smear any sharp edges you can find.
By OldManRiver From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Aug 7, 2012 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
5.8+ due to the slippery start. After that it's much more manageable. Enjoyable route with a lot of options.
beginning was really fun and will definitely test you. A gentleman told me I was sure to fall multiple times (don't ever tell someone that before they climb please). I didn't fall, it was a really fun lead!
By Garrett C From: SL,UT Apr 18, 2014 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c