On The Road 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Chris Grover, Jim Davis, 1980 |
| Submitted By: | David Tvedt on Mar 30, 2006 |
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Description The technical crux hits soon after the start with a thin crack through a bulge that is finger size dependent. Larger fingers require face moves while smaller fingers can use the thin crack. Fighting the pump to the finish is the other crux of this classic route. A great climb.
Location Wildfire Wall
Protection Gear to 2 1/2 inches including small cams.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 21, 2007
rating: 5.11a
| This climb kicked my ass - plain and simple. Bring small (I mean small!) cams for the first crux section exiting the awkward flare. The middle section of rattly fingers, while easier, is no cake walk. The final bit of hands is a welcome relief.
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| Less of a battle the second time, but still a battle. C3s (purple to red) are key at the crux. Plus more small cams for the start. After the crux there is a good big offset nut and a good HB #6 brass. Then it steadily goes from #0.5 camalots to #2 camalots. Most mortals will want a good helping - especially the #0.5/#0.75s . There is a solid 20' of sustained rattly fingers and ringlocks without feet. When it finally goes to hands, it gets overhung so its still no walk in the park. Oh yeah! |
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