On the Rebound
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, TR |
FA: | J. Nelson, D. Lapeska, and FDC Willard |
Page Views: | 1,460 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Jon Nelson on May 3, 2013 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
Start up Leeper's Corner, then move over to the start of the long flake crack. Then jam and layback up the crack. One can belay on the same bolted anchors of End run and Game on.
A challenge with the crux is that the flake crack is invisible to you when you have to move over. It is a blind reach. Look for where the left face of the corner has an upper (third) crack that can be jammed or underclung. Here is the place. That crack is actually the other side of the crack you are shooting for. It is a big reach. Some may have to dyno for it. And if you are under 5' tall, it may be physically impossible to make the reach. Doing a two-handed dyno would be very awkward from the way the corner and crack are situated (dynoing around a bulge). So, the given rating is more of a minimum. I suppose most routes are body-size dependent, but this route may be more so than most.
Protection
At the bottom, a few finger-to-hand size nuts and cams. For the crux, a hand-sized cam is needed. Once in the face crack, one can put another hand-sized cam, and then larger cams above.
The crack widens considerably at the top to more than 5", but the climbing up here is low angle and only 5.6 or so.
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