On-Slot  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  R. and J. Rossiter, 1986 Fixed Hardware:  1 Lead Bolt, 1 Belay Bolt [details] Submitted By:  Steve Annecone on May 22, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Tony Bubb leads just above the wide crux of On-Slo...

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Description 

On-Slot is the obvious, continuous crack line running up the right side of the Far Right Buttress of Continental Crag. Head up to the bottom of the overhanging offwidth slot, clip a bolt, and work up into the slot (crux). The Rossiter guide calls it 11c, but that seems a bit soft for Eldo (or for Vedauwoo for that matter), and it's a fairly short crux section as well; 11b is probably closer to the grade.

A few feet of squeeze chimney leads to easier fists and wide hands, then into a nice section of steep hands (10a/b). Follow the crack up to a left-leaning, flared offwidth slot (save one med. cam to protect this section). Grovel through the awkward slot, which looks easier than it is (5.10). Climb up past the bush and belay on a large ledge near the top of the formation. It's a fairly steep and sustained climb, fun if you like hand and wide cracks!

We descended by 4th-classing down a steep gully to the right (south), which is fairly loose in places, but rumor has it that there's a rap anchor somewhere along the ridge to the north... we didn't see it while traversing the ridge earlier?

Protection 

Assorted camming devices covering 1 inch to 4 inches with doubles in hand size, a few nuts, and a 4.5 and/or 5 Camalot. There's also a bolt right at the crux.