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On second thought 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Nathan Brown, Andrew Mcdowell, Dennis Merritt
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: nbrown on Oct 15, 2010
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Phil posing for a shot for top rope magazine...
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  • Description 

    This is a great climb with lots of variety. It has a short and bouldery crux that can easily be aided at 5.11 A0. Be sure to sling much of the gear in the middle of the route (under roof) long.

    P-1. Climb up to a bolt in the ramp that leads right past a pin and another bolt. Face climb on wild crystals to a stance below left facing corner and get some gear ( small nuts). Climb past a small/med cam (offset works well here) to the bolt and then up to a stance below roof. Move left past possible .4 camelot (sling long) and clip bolt above roof. Continue left then make some funky delicate moves to gain the face above. Climb past 2 more bolts and some balancy mantel moves to an anchor at 100'.


    Location 

    This route is located just before reaching a vegetated gully/chimney that seperates the shorter walls with the main face. If you reach the funky log in the trail you've just passed the start. Look for the rightmost line just right of a couple boulders leaning against the wall.


    Protection 

    Standard rack up to 2 or 3 inch cam.



    Photos of On second thought Slideshow Add Photo
    Climbing on the cool quartz knobs down low.
    Climbing on the cool quartz knobs down low.
    Phil approaching the crux roof.
    Phil approaching the crux roof.
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