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Omega Pacific Doval Carabiner
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Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Does anyone have any experience with these carabiner's?


Rock Climbing Photo: OP Doval
OP Doval
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
NYClimber wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with these carabiner's?


I absolutely hate them, they take the worst qualities of an oval, and combine them with the worst qualities of a D and bring that all into the single worst biner ever made (IMHO).
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,025 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
OK thanks. NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Apr 9, 2013
That sounded harsh but the reality is, that probably wasn't harsh enough.

I would rather spend a day indoors watching conspiracy theories on youtube than spend a day climbing with dovals.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
nicelegs wrote:
That sounded harsh but the reality is, that probably wasn't harsh enough. I would rather spend a day indoors watching conspiracy theories on youtube than spend a day climbing with dovals.


Wow! That's rough dudes! LOL.
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Apr 9, 2013
OP doesnt make the Doval anymore, fwiw. They make a similar carabiner called the Lava, but the Doval went away a couple years ago, i think. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,472 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle
OP makes some of the heaviest caribiners on the market. Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
155 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Gif on Bimbo Shrine, Kaymoor
When I first started climbing, I chewed through two Omega locking ovals in only a few top rope sessions. Put a bad taste in my mouth about the company. Call it harsh, but I wouldn't trust my life to Omega gear. Gif Zafred
From Pittsburgh, PA
Joined Nov 30, 2010
41 points
Apr 9, 2013
I use them as racking biners. They where really cheap and light enough. Don't use them for anything else though. cfuttner
Joined Apr 27, 2012
8 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
John Wilder wrote:
OP doesnt make the Doval anymore, fwiw. They make a similar carabiner called the Lava, but the Doval went away a couple years ago, i think.


John,
Campmor is still selling them!

????
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
Ignore the name, they're a symmetric D with a wiregate. Kinda Pointless, to be honest. If you want a good racking biner for nuts/tricams/etc get a real oval. If you want biners for draws or racking cams individually, get some normal wiregates so you can tell the orientation at a glance. Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
955 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
I do not like the two I own because you cannot at a glance tell which end is the opening end. If you get them super cheap, sure buy them, then maybe paint the opening end for visual cue? randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
112 points
Administrator
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: !
NYClimber wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with these carabiner's?

I like 'em. Probably them most versatile carabiner out there. A few are part of my "don't leave the ground without them" gear. Used them just last weekend for a carabiner brake while on a minimalist gear day.
Larry DeAngelo
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Nov 1, 2002
4,039 points
Apr 9, 2013
I have heard of people using them as light weight oval for aid. harpo-the-climber
Joined Nov 2, 2010
135 points
Apr 9, 2013
Looks like they would be easy to cross load and therefore fail. will smith
From boulder
Joined Jan 16, 2008
42 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo:  VOTCD. Photo  by tylerroemer.com
I never had any cross-loading issues with them more than any other carabiner, but the orientation did goof me up a bit. For a few weeks I was using them on alpine draws, but as mentioned above, i found myself trying to clip in to an upside down biner. My dovals are currently in use for hanging my rock rings off the trusses in my garage, and tying down my canoe to my car. Paul Trendler
From Bend, Oregon
Joined Sep 22, 2011
140 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
I bought 1/2 dz of the Dovals but have not used them yet per se - so I guess I will find out first hand what I think of them. I have not had any issues with Omega 'biners thus far. I put them on my dogbones for Sport Climbing and plan to try them out this week on some bolted Sport routes and see what I think of them. NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get t...
kennoyce wrote:
I absolutely hate them, they take the worst qualities of an oval, and combine them with the worst qualities of a D and bring that all into the single worst biner ever made (IMHO).


+1. I got 2 for free a long time ago & really wanted to like them. Eventually I had to face the reality that they suck at just about everything except use as a leaver 'biner.
Mike
From Phoenix
Joined May 16, 2006
2,770 points
Apr 9, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Mike wrote:
+1. I got 2 for free a long time ago & really wanted to like them. Eventually I had to face the reality that they suck at just about everything except use as a leaver 'biner.


No kidding! Gee - def discouraging for sure!
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Apr 9, 2013
When these things came out, over 10 years ago, they were relatively cutting edge. Very light for the day, wiregate, unique geometry for a light weight biner. A good, but not great, biner in it's time

But that was then, designs have moved on for the better.

Around the same time, they (Omega) had some funky shaped lightweight wiregates called the JC. I still have some of these kicking around. They managed to make a very light biner (again, for the time) with a big fat rope bearing radius, by channelizing down the spine of the biner. Kinda scary looking honestly, but again pretty much cutting edge for the day.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,377 points
Apr 9, 2013
I really think the doval was designed by a comittee who had heard in broad strokes the advantages of oval- and d-shaped carabiners and thought "we can do that" without ever bothering to ask what design choices actually led to the advantages. Instead, you've got an ovalized exterior but the interior is still d-shaped, so there's shifting. Then they make sure the nose isn't very prominent, so its hard to tell which end is the hinge of the gate without looking at it. The only thing they got right was to give it a straight spine with a nice rounded exterior, but then they made it out forged, shaped stock so its still not as good for a carabiner brake.

The doval is literally everything that could go wrong in carabiner design that still results in a carabiner that passes UIAA certification.
Brian Scoggins
From Laramie, WY
Joined Mar 12, 2002
1,220 points


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