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Eagle Canyon
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Omdulation Fever S 
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Omdulation Fever 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: Dave Wachter on Jul 11, 2009

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Description 

Take this description with a grain of salt, because I only thrashed up the route in poor form on toprope. I don't normally submit route descriptions for climbs I haven't redpointed, but I did work all the moves, and feel like some description is better than none...
  • **Anybody who's actually climbed this thing and is willing to review it, please let me know, and I'll take my description out. I can't vouch for the 12c difficulty, as I don't normally get on climbs of that level in this style (but I can say that the moves feel ridiculously harder than 12a and 12b pocket routes I've climbed in NM).**
Having said all that, here's my description:

The fun starts (and soon ends) on pockets which disappointingly decrease in size and quality as the route steepens to slightly over vertical. Work your way up into a dishy narrow face with an arete just to the left of the bolt line, and pull (hard) on shallow mono- and 2-finger pockets with minimal feet (pop, pop, pop!). As the angle eases mid-climb, the pockets become nearly useless depressions. Finish on easier moves once you reach the horizontal seam at the last bolt (shared with "Are You Lichen It?"). Clips seem desperate.
In all fairness, I tried this route on a wicked hot summer day (though in afternoon shade) - may be more fun and less of an ass-kicker in crisp fall temps.

Location 

In the alcove, next to "Are You Lichen It?" (see that route description).

Protection 

Bolts to 2 eye-bolt anchor (shared with "Are You Lichen It?," which comes in handy for rescuing draws).


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