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Jan 17, 2014
I've seen a few posts floating around the webternets about doing West Slabs and the Great Chimney in winter, with ice. Has anyone reading this done either? I'm wondering what the secret combination of conditions might be. Matt Selman
From Salt Lake City
Joined Jan 28, 2009
208 points
Jan 20, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Hand Jive
This link should give you quite a bit of info regarding an alpine ascent of the west slabs. Looks like fun.

slc-samurai.blogspot.com/2011/...
Shaun Greene
From www.UtahShaun.com
Joined Feb 23, 2006
469 points
Jan 21, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: a
There's also this: mountainproject.com/v/boreas/1...

I've been keeping my eye out for the flow (you can spot it from the road if you know where to look) and I haven't been able to see any ice up there this season.
Sam Cannon
From Leavenworth, WA
Joined May 4, 2012
969 points
Jan 21, 2014
Re Great Chimney, you refering to this route?

Great Chimney

See the comments on that page for your answer. A low snow year like this with some warmer temps thrown in might make for good conditions sooner rather than later.
ddriver
From SLC
Joined Jul 30, 2007
321 points
Jan 21, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: What would you rate this?  Lake Michigan.
The West Slabs & the Chimney are unreliable and ice is sometimes found in patches. There is real ice (WI4) on or near Olympus (east side), fairly reliable but not this year. Long, convoluting "maze" approach.....you need to know exactly where to go or will walk right past the ribbon start. I looked recently & it's not in but no surprise......too warm. Warbonnet
From Utah, India and Cambodia
Joined Nov 24, 2013
644 points
Jan 22, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: What would you rate this?  Lake Michigan.
The "ribbon starts" are above Boreas. Two choices: right (towards Olympus ridge) or left & up about 250 to 300 feet. Challenging route finding, however, the left slog presents the best opportunities; head for what I call "The Diamond". (Everyone else has a "Diamond", why not us?). You can see this from the valley, esp. when a snow storm comes. It retains very little snow, hence, revealing its steepness. Prominent face. If you're lucky, right or left (above Boreas), and look for solid ribbons of ice (easily missed), you can find 2-3 pitches of WI3-4 in a good year. If you get all the way to The Diamond & try to get down, it will be late, and you might end up at the edge(s) of large cliffs. We usually bring an I-Tent, a sleeping bag and hang out, then descend to the EAST where you will find a couple of water fall climbs. Long, circuitous couple of days but, paraphrasing the movie titled: "Far From the Maddening Crowd".

To really get to know this area, hike it in the summer. More streams than expected but rattlesnake invested; take two hiking poles, ready to do battle with the slither-ettes.
Warbonnet
From Utah, India and Cambodia
Joined Nov 24, 2013
644 points


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