Hi all, I'm looking to climb Olive Oil this weekend, and was looking to see if someone could tell me how the runout section is like in particular (I like to know what I"m running out). Is its faceless holds? Just face with lots of holds? Low angle or steep?

Also, how is the chimney like?

TIA

What are "faceless holds?"

Not sure of your ability but it's a cruiser route (IMO). The runout sections are fairly steep but have plenty of holds. The chimney has facial relief and gear placements and I don't remember actually employing true chimney technique.

Its not that bad- the opening pitch has a little run to good gear on some insecure terrain, or you can go into the chimney and get gear and deal with bad rope drag.

I dont remember any significant runouts on the upper pitches- or at least nothing that got my attention. Certainly nothing as intimidating as the runs on Tunnel or Frogland.

A 70m rope is nice, though. Probably wouldnt climb Olive Oil on a 60m.

The most runout I recall was traversing into the chimney (approx 35ft of no pro on 5.easy and the chimney is like 80-100ft tall. It sounds like you have the quals for the climb so it will be no sweat. If you use a 70m rope you can link 2 and 3 but it is a rope stretcher. Don't forget to play the bongos atop p1!

This is a route I solo from time to time...it is incredibly well traveled and thus the rock is solid. With a 70m rope, you can convert Olive Oil’s five to six pitches into four. I have never considered it run out.

People get weirded out when they see the R in the book on easy trade routes in Red Rock, but the reality is most of the trade routes have pretty serious run-outs (like the '5.8' run to the bolt on the pitch above the roof/below the chockstone on Frogland, the crux of Tunnelvision, the crux of Group Therapy [actually, the whole route is pretty run out], etc, etc)- dont sweat it too much. Its a trade route for a reason- the runs are pretty reasonable.

Or you could just clip alla them bolts...them shiny, new bolts...that made the route all safe and whatnot.

???

haha lets remember people, rock climbing is inherently dangerous. The danger kinda embodies the purpose of doing it in the first place for me. Though everyone climbs for different reasons,why not climb for safety! Sort of like smoking to cure lung cancer. Brilliant!