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 ADVANCED
Quarry Wall
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Double B T 
In the Way S 
Monosmear S 
Old'n S 
Xenolith S 

Old'n 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Stewart Green and Martha Morris, August 2004
Page Views: 1,946
Submitted By: Anna Moore on Jun 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Shandog climbing Old'n.

Description 

Climb up the slab just to the right of the quarry. Edge and smear up perfect sandstone to anchors just below the ledge rim (thanks, Stewart). Has a great place at the top to belay from, and also you can climb over the top to a large flat area with a great view.

Location 

Far left route on Quarry Wall, uses the same last bolt and anchors as Monosmear (5.8).

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Also has an eye-bolt at the base for the belayer.


Photos of Old'n Slideshow Add Photo
Rappelling with Brian Shelton.
Rappelling with Brian Shelton.
Fun climb along the arete. Compared to the  5.6s i...
BETA PHOTO: Fun climb along the arete. Compared to the 5.6s i...
Aesthetic climbing.
Aesthetic climbing.
Fun climb following the Arete up the slab.  Lots o...
BETA PHOTO: Fun climb following the Arete up the slab. Lots o...

Comments on Old'n Add Comment
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By Anna Moore
Jun 25, 2006

We climbed this yesterday. It really freaked me out to climb right on the edge of the quarry, so if anyone has any tips on how to do this route, I'd love to hear them. There was also some areas that looked like they had once been handholds that had been broken off but I can't be sure. To me this route was harder than the 5.5 rating given in the book but then again, I could just suck. When we rappelled we went down Monosmear which let us avoid the pine tree. Over all though my favorite part was definitely the view from the top.
By ty.
From: Colorado Springs
Nov 9, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

This was a nice climb, with a great view at the top and a comfortable spot to belay at the top. Although the physical climb wasn't too difficult, the psychological aspect of climbing the edge of a quarry may increase the difficulty.
By Raymond Johnson
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 11, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

If you don't mind the exposure, the quarry "steps" align perfectly with the four bolts leading up to the anchor, allowing a good stance for clipping. You'll want two double runners (4 ft) for the anchor to avoid running your rope across the rock.
By Will Bluster
From: Elizabeth, CO
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I echo the double 4ft runner suggestion above. That edge is kind of sharp & won't do your rope any favors.

If the exposure is freaky, try a little layback against the arete.
By John Layko Torkleson
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I thought this was a very nice easy lead for new climbers. The gf led it as her second lead. Then a son and dad came up and the son led it. Very cool exposure.
By Blake Roberts
From: Denver, CO
Apr 27, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Just climbed this yesterday with the wife: my first lead and her first outdoor climb! It was an absolute blast, great bolt placement, great views, and and overall great time. The section just below the fourth bolt seemed to us to be the crux.

Can't wait to get back to RRCOS.