Old Yellar 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13- [details] |
| FA: | [S. Hong & P. Adams] |
| Submitted By: | Adam Holmes on Jan 1, 2003 |
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Jeff sending
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Description Long, technical, steep, pumpy -- what more could you ask for? Old Yellar is a great granite route that's technical down low. Then, midway up, you enter a vicious undercling to enter the steep second half with a heartbreak crux at the end. It's well worth the short hike to get up there.
Protection 9 bolts + anchors
BETA PHOTO: At the base of Old Yellar Dome
| Photo by Jeff Parmenter
| Kai nearing the top.
| Matt about to start the "upper crux".
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By Ben Randolph From: Boulder, CO Jun 11, 2006
| This route is amazing. Definitely a heartbreak crux at the end. Long, sustained, and pumpy for sure. Sick!! |
By Joe Collins Jun 11, 2007
| This route has 4-star climbing with 2-star rock quality. Several key holds may not stand the test of time, particularly the key crimp where you move back left near the 2nd to last bolt. Steepest route in the Front Range? The crux may be in figuring out how get a warm up for it. |
By Jesse Ryan Nov 22, 2008
| Crux crimp broke this summer. Have not been on it since, likely harder now. |
By EJM Aug 2, 2009 rating: 5.13a
| Got on this rig today, I think it gets my vote for best 13a on the Front Range. Awesome line. Nice and stout. Didn't notice any broken or missing grips..it's all there. |
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Aug 3, 2009
| Well, first you'd have to get people to agree on which routes on the Front Range are 13a. Good luck with that! |
By EJM Aug 3, 2009 rating: 5.13a
| ...yeah, pretty sure I'm not going to waste my time with that one. |
By gatch From: denver, co Apr 4, 2010 rating: 5.13a/b
| Was up there today, 4.4.10, and my friend broke off the the low crux undercling. It still goes but is harder. Between that hold and the high crimp having broken a while back, this thing now feels more 13b than 13a. |
By chris schulte Jun 14, 2010
| Are the listed projects still projects? |
By Swavek Gaik From: Superior, CO Jan 29, 2012
| Somebody stole the hanger from the sixth bolt. I replaced it, but leave it alone. If you feel too safe, just don't clip it (or any other bolts). |
By Brett Merlin Mar 26, 2012 rating: 5.13a
| Took down and threw away all the fixed tat on this line on 3/24/12. They were completely sun-bleached and sketchy looking. |
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