From the Washington State Park's Page [www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock]: Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route needs a better anchor, yes. It needs one extra bolt, hence the current pg-13 grade. But, Old Warriors Never Dies offers the 5.12 climber the chance to get familiar with Beacon Rock and the movement you often find there. The moves are fun, you are often hugging the pillar, and balance is key. I just cleaned it yesterday, but it may need a little extra dusting. All in all, if it gets done more, it will be a great PDX test piece and is worth it! Sweet!
The bolted pillar just left of "Wrong Gull"
5 bolts (one is questionable and will be replaced). Also, there will hopefully be an anchor placed atop the pillar soon. As of now you must traverse left to webbing slung around a rock.
I completely agree J. I'm one for running it out and not destroying the history and style of a route. I was simply thinking of adding an anchor and replacing the last bolt (really in need of it) and in doing so hopefully getting people interested in climbing the route and out to Beacon. Of course I'll contact the 1st ascentionist too!