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The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Old Town 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: please help
Page Views: 8,479
Submitted By: Ladd on Jul 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (104)
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BETA PHOTO: Starting out up Old Town on a nice (relative) Janu...

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>


Starts at a fun corner that requires an interesting high foot that will make you get into a fantastic layback that you'll stay in for the rest of this climb. make some fun moves until you mantle the ledge at the half-way point then protect high off the ledge and continue up the upper layback (crux) to the easy topout.

Matthew Fienup:

Truly classic laybacking and stemming at an accessible grade. Every bit as good as it looks.


I use some med nuts, 2 #2BD camalots, and some mid range cams for pro. I think you could use all small stuff but with the #2s it makes protecting ledge fall a breeze.

Photos of Old Town Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marisa Fienup in the stunning dihedral of "Ol...
Marisa Fienup in the stunning dihedral of "Ol...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marisa Fienup, "Old Town"
Marisa Fienup, "Old Town"
Rock Climbing Photo: Old town.
Old town.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick finishing up Old Town
Nick finishing up Old Town
Rock Climbing Photo: working up the upper crack
working up the upper crack
Rock Climbing Photo: the start to Old Town
BETA PHOTO: the start to Old Town
Rock Climbing Photo: Delicious corner
Delicious corner
Rock Climbing Photo: following on the bottom of old town
following on the bottom of old town
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Town, Precipice, Acadia ME
Old Town, Precipice, Acadia ME

Comments on Old Town Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 25, 2007

For help locating the start of the route, click here
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: midcoast, maine
Feb 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A super fun climb that's easy to protect. Great for your first time leading, a 50m rope is all you need to reach the ground. The view of the ocean is priceless.
By Derek Doucet
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Rock climbs get harder, and they get longer, but move for move, they don't get much better. Absolutely perfect stone, pleasant and interesting moves, great pro, a fantastic setting, and sustained at the grade. A flawless pitch of climbing. Climb this route!
By Michael Buchanan
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Sweet route, crux is the first few moves, everything else is cruiser. If it were only longer!
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Don't underestimate the first 20 feet--it's a little awkward and strenuous. Please take the time to protect the start well. After that, it's just cruising wonderfulness.
By Anthony Codega
May 31, 2012

I believe the FA of this wonderful climb goes to Jerry Cinnamon...
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 27, 2015

Odd, awkward start, leads to awesome fun climbing. The rock is amazing, the flakes are amazing, it's all good.
By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Jul 10, 2015

I think that this is the best 5.7 I've done anywhere. It is a strikingly beautiful and looks like it would go at 5.10 but is delightfully moderate! It's an absolute must-do.

I watched many groups climb it over a few days that I spent at the Precipice and did note that less experienced followers tended to fall on the first move or two so a tight belay is necessary to keep them from clipping the ground.

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