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A fun, moderate climb, but be aware of the long run outs. Climb up the middle of a narrow slab to a spacious ledge at a two bolt chain anchor. The climbing is straightforward for the most part, but gear placements are hard to find.
Just right of the dirty gully at the extreme left end of the cliff.
Bring a modern camden rack, especially small wires. A fixed anchor is at the top.
Sep 14, 2009
This didn't seem as runout as other climbs on the cliff. The placements are adequate and right where you need them.
|By Rob C.|
From: Freeport, ME
Jun 9, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R
I think I did this one a couple of days ago, although I can't be entirely sure since there are a few climbs on this face, and talking to a local, it sounds like I started out on old spice, and ended on young stud (?) - which I think is the crack system directly above old stud. The runout felt like 25 feet, but on pretty easy ground and as epoch says, solid. Pretty fun.