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Sass Da Ciampac
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Old South Face T 

Old South Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1640'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Franz Pospischil, Josef Adang, Josef Nagler. 1903
Season: Summer
Page Views: 753
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2007

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Sass Da Ciampac Old South Face Route


Pitch 1 - Start on a grassy ledge and climb a crack up to a left-facing ramp. (45m)

Pitch 2 - Follow another crack and left-facing ramp. (50m)

Pitch 3 - Continue up the ramp, then move right to the base of a corner. (45m)

Pitch 4 - Traverse right on ledges to a groove.

Pitch 5 - Climb up the groove. (50m)

Pitch 6 - Climb black slabs then step right towards arete. (35m)

Pitch 7 - Climb up the water-worn channel. (50m)

Pitch 8 - Climb broken crack that is to the left of more black slabs to a small stance. (45m)

Pitch 9 - Continue up the corner and crack system towards a chimney. (45m)

Pitch 10 - Climb the chimney and then face to an angling ledge. (45m)

Pitch 11 - Face climb up to a dish-shaped ledge. (60m)

From here scramble up scree and broken rock to the top of the formation.

Descent - Head west following a well-marked trail to the Crespeina Col and then back to the Val Gardena Col.


The route ascends the south face of Sass Da Ciampac. Approach from the Val Gardena Col.


Some pins in place. Bring a selection of nuts and small to medium cams. Extra slings.

Photos of Old South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Sass da Ciampac from the approach trail
Sass da Ciampac from the approach trail
Looking out to the distance and down to Corvara fr...
Looking out to the distance and down to Corvara fr...
Easy climbing on ramps mid route. Gardena pass and...
Easy climbing on ramps mid route. Gardena pass and...

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By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This route is more of a 4th class scamper with an occasional climbing move than anything else. Its a worthy outing if you want an easy ascent on a sunny south face. To approach - park at the Val Gardena Col, walk down the road a couple turns then go left on the trail near a hut - the trail crosses the hillside for some distance - follow it until you get to the South Face go up the slope and back left on a grassy ramp to the base.
To descend walk West on a well marked path along the summit ridge then back down to Val Gardena pass.
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