Old South Face  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 11 pitches, 1640 feet Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  Franz Pospischil, Josef Adang, Josef Nagler. 1903 Season:  Summer Submitted By:  eDixon on May 25, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sass Da Ciampac Old South Face Route

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Description 

Pitch 1 - Start on a grassy ledge and climb a crack up to a left-facing ramp. (45m)

Pitch 2 - Follow another crack and left-facing ramp. (50m)

Pitch 3 - Continue up the ramp, then move right to the base of a corner. (45m)

Pitch 4 - Traverse right on ledges to a groove.

Pitch 5 - Climb up the groove. (50m)

Pitch 6 - Climb black slabs then step right towards arete. (35m)

Pitch 7 - Climb up the water-worn channel. (50m)

Pitch 8 - Climb broken crack that is to the left of more black slabs to a small stance. (45m)

Pitch 9 - Continue up the corner and crack system towards a chimney. (45m)

Pitch 10 - Climb the chimney and then face to an angling ledge. (45m)

Pitch 11 - Face climb up to a dish-shaped ledge. (60m)

From here scramble up scree and broken rock to the top of the formation.

Descent - Head west following a well-marked trail to the Crespeina Col and then back to the Val Gardena Col.

Location 

The route ascends the south face of Sass Da Ciampac. Approach from the Val Gardena Col.

Protection 

Some pins in place. Bring a selection of nuts and small to medium cams. Extra slings.

Photos of Old South Face Slideshow

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Sass da Ciampac from the approach trail	Easy climbing on ramps mid route. Gardena pass and...	Looking out to the distance and down to Corvara fr...