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Routes in Winter Wall
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Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bosch Hogg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Highly Caffeinated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Xibalba S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Unknown original FA, FRA by Kiser & Wezwick |
| Page Views: | 1,814 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Wenker on Jul 15, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
This easy crack climb ascends a left-leaning seam that gradually steepens into a blocky left-trending dihedral.
As noted in the comments section of Roid Boys, Karl Kiser and Tom Wezwick climbed this crack (in the 1990s?) and put in an anchor. They knew it was previously climbed because an old sling was found in the crack. Mark Thomas then put up Roid Boys and placed the upper anchor bolts where they could be used by both routes (because the rock at the top of the Old Sling crack was less than good).
A route name and topo are posted online by Bradshaw, although the route appears misplotted on that photo topo (i.e., too far right).
Also described and illustrated by Beverly (2006:219-220) as climb #16 (which incorrectly states that it shares anchors with climb #10 - actually they are shared with climb #15). Jackson (2006:138) identifies this as route #2.2, and names it "5.8 Trad Route." Jackson's narrative description is partly correct, except for the notes on the descent, but most importantly his photo topo is completely wrong and should NOT be used.
As noted in the comments section of Roid Boys, Karl Kiser and Tom Wezwick climbed this crack (in the 1990s?) and put in an anchor. They knew it was previously climbed because an old sling was found in the crack. Mark Thomas then put up Roid Boys and placed the upper anchor bolts where they could be used by both routes (because the rock at the top of the Old Sling crack was less than good).
A route name and topo are posted online by Bradshaw, although the route appears misplotted on that photo topo (i.e., too far right).
Also described and illustrated by Beverly (2006:219-220) as climb #16 (which incorrectly states that it shares anchors with climb #10 - actually they are shared with climb #15). Jackson (2006:138) identifies this as route #2.2, and names it "5.8 Trad Route." Jackson's narrative description is partly correct, except for the notes on the descent, but most importantly his photo topo is completely wrong and should NOT be used.
Location
Near the right (northerly) end of the Sunshine/Winter Wall, climb the first crack system to the right of Roid Boys. Three main cracks ascend here; I picked the rightmost one because it led more directly into the upper dihedral.
Although this route shares anchors with Roid Boys, it is actually longer than that route because it starts farther right, so a 60m rope will NOT set you back down at the base of this specific route if you choose to lower or rap to clean your gear. And because the route angles so much, lowering or rapping to clean is pretty dicey and could open you to a big swinging pendulum after you pull your lowest piece. Maybe better to have the second climb and clean, and then both climbers descend straight down Roid Boys, which reportedly can be rapped with a single 60m rope (although it too will apparently "come up a couple meters short of the ground").
Although this route shares anchors with Roid Boys, it is actually longer than that route because it starts farther right, so a 60m rope will NOT set you back down at the base of this specific route if you choose to lower or rap to clean your gear. And because the route angles so much, lowering or rapping to clean is pretty dicey and could open you to a big swinging pendulum after you pull your lowest piece. Maybe better to have the second climb and clean, and then both climbers descend straight down Roid Boys, which reportedly can be rapped with a single 60m rope (although it too will apparently "come up a couple meters short of the ground").
Protection
Standard trad rack of nuts and cams to about 3 inches. Shares a two-bolt, chained anchor with Roid Boys.
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