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Old Sling Straightened
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 6
votes
Routes in Winter Wall
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Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bosch Hogg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Highly Caffeinated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Xibalba S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m) |
| FA: | Sharon Dogruel and Greg Swift |
| Page Views: | 1,625 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Dec 7, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Old Sling Straightened is mixed gear and bolts route established by Sharon and Greg a couple years ago on the right side of the Winter Wall. Story has it they were looking for a line they could climb over and over for years to come and liked the lower part of a route they believed to be Old Sling because they found an old sling in one of the cracks. But the upper parts were horribly loose and sketchy.
With that in mind they looked to the left and found some clean, short dihedrals leading to a clean panel of rock to finish up on. The dihedrals and final panel didn't protect well so they hand drilled four protection bolts on the upper part of the wall.
Start as for Protein Supplement following a left-angling seam on easy terrain towards a big, black roof using gear for pro. Pull the roof and cruise the low angle gully to another small, wide crack roof. Head for two, short, bolt-protected dihedrals above followed by an all-too-short finger crack section up to the final, steep headwall. To this point the climbing is fun and moderate. Clip two bolts on the final headwall, the 5.10 crux, up to the top. A single anchor bolt will be found at the top.
With that in mind they looked to the left and found some clean, short dihedrals leading to a clean panel of rock to finish up on. The dihedrals and final panel didn't protect well so they hand drilled four protection bolts on the upper part of the wall.
Start as for Protein Supplement following a left-angling seam on easy terrain towards a big, black roof using gear for pro. Pull the roof and cruise the low angle gully to another small, wide crack roof. Head for two, short, bolt-protected dihedrals above followed by an all-too-short finger crack section up to the final, steep headwall. To this point the climbing is fun and moderate. Clip two bolts on the final headwall, the 5.10 crux, up to the top. A single anchor bolt will be found at the top.
Location
The route is at the far right side of the Winter Wall sharing a start with Protein Supplement. It's a full 60m. You can break the route into two pitches with a belay below the two, short dihedrals to minimize rope drag/weight.
Protection
Single rack of BD .3 to #3 cams. Wires could be useful but not necessary. 4 protection bolts along the way and a single anchor bolt at the top along with a big rock to sling serve as the anchor. Walk off to the north and swing back down to your packs and tasty peanut butter and honey sandwich.
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