Old School  5.7

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Justin Johnsen on Feb 20, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Alapocas main wall topo from Alapocas climbing gui...

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Permit required for roped climbing. MORE INFO >>> On your first visit, go to the Blue Ball Barn to get a mandatory (but inexpensive) climbing permit. You must carry the permit with you any time you climb on ropes at Alapocas, or you may be ticketed. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start on the middle ledge of the Main Wall, below the highly visible diagonal crack leading into the left corner of the roof block. Tiptoe up the starting slab, minding the lack of friction on the painted-over spraypaint - or bypassing it on either side. Go straight for the crack, or traverse up and right under the roof and back left from there. Wriggle and writhe through the roof notch and you're done.

The most dramatic established line at Alapocas.

Location 

In the middle of the main wall, starting on the ledge two thirds of the way up the face.

Protection 

No pro, toprope only. A pair of good bolts is at the top or the wall above the route. A friendly cliffside tree can be slung for safety while setting the anchor.

Photos of Old School Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Randall pulls the roof on top of Old School.

BETA PHOTO: Old School done as a 30m climb, with Allison belay...