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 ADVANCED
Alapocas Run State Park
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(warm up traverse) 
Chossy's Corner TR 
Dichotomy TR 
Dichotomy Corner TR 
Hungry for Me TR 
Junior Slab TR 
Old Granddad aka Bob's Slab TR 
Old Grandmom TR 
Old School TR 

Old School 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 20, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Alapocas main wall topo from Alapocas climbing gui...
Permit required for roped climbing. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the middle ledge of the Main Wall, below the highly visible diagonal crack leading into the left corner of the roof block. Tiptoe up the starting slab, minding the lack of friction on the painted-over spraypaint - or bypassing it on either side. Go straight for the crack, or traverse up and right under the roof and back left from there. Wriggle and writhe through the roof notch and you're done.

The most dramatic established line at Alapocas.


Location 

In the middle of the main wall, starting on the ledge two thirds of the way up the face.


Protection 

No pro, toprope only. A pair of good bolts is at the top or the wall above the route. A friendly cliffside tree can be slung for safety while setting the anchor.



Photos of Old School Slideshow Add Photo
Randall pulls the roof on top of Old School.
BETA PHOTO: Randall pulls the roof on top of Old School.
Old School done as a 30m climb, with Allison belaying Randall off the first ledge above the ground.
BETA PHOTO: Old School done as a 30m climb, with Allison belay...
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