|Old School Rock
Old School Rock is a limestone buttress that separates two steep, loose gullies. The buttress is home to a handful of bolted lines including a rarity in American Fork Canyon: a multi-pitch route.
The rock is steep, solid, and mostly lacks the pockets for which American Fork is known. Instead, the climbing is devious face climbing on small edges with the occasional jug. Most of the lines have a ledge or two allowing decent rests.
Walk up Tank Canyon and follow the trail on the east (right) of the streambed. The trail will cross the streambed heading north and then immediately turn east (right). Continue following the trail through a grove of evergreens and then step over some tree roots and a short steep section to walk to the left of the stream.
The trail (and stream) turns north again (left); follow the trail past two gullies on the left. Just before the third gully a bolted route will appear on a limestone outcropping that almost reaches to the streambed. This is the first route on Visionary Wall.
For the three routes on the south side of the buttress, head up the gully along the base of Visionary Wall and cross the steep, loose gully when you are more-or-less level with the routes.
For the rest of the routes continue another hundred feet or so and head up along the south side of the next rock outcropping that almost reaches the streambed.
About a 12-minute walk.
South side of buttress, left-to-right (i.e., starting uphill):
1. Spot 5.11b
2. Boo Direct 5.12a/b (shares start and anchors with Boo)
3. Boo 5.11c
East side of buttress:
4. Dag Nasty Part Deux 5.9
5. Old Stone Crab 5.10a (one long pitch, shares most of Old School's first pitch).
6. Old School 5.10b (two pitches, starts on east face)
North side of buttress (still left-to-right):
7. Diamond Dogs 5.11d
8. Bang Bang 5.11c
North side of gully north of buttress (south-facing):
9. Unknown name 5.11b
8 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Old School Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old School Rock:
Old School 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Spot 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Boo 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 60'
Bang Bang 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
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|Comments on Old School Rock
Aug 1, 2009
The unnamed #10 rte is a 12a called Inky. Stick clip the first bolt, a good bouldery rte. 2/3 stars
The 2 rtes at the top of the gully on the right are left to right.
Spot 11a/b. Some nice climbing on good rock, crux low down. 2 stars
Boo 11c. If you finish up the arete. 3 stars
Boo direct 12a/b. If you go straight up the face to the anchor. 2 stars