Old School Rock  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  1,433. Good page?    Administrators:  Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Perin Blanchard on Sep 10, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>> The Lone Peak Wilderness boundary begins a short distance into Tank Canyon. Wilderness rules apply. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>> See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Upper part of Dag Nasty Part Deux.

Description 

Old School Rock is a limestone buttress that separates two steep, loose gullies. The buttress is home to a handful of bolted lines including a rarity in American Fork Canyon: a multi-pitch route.

The rock is steep, solid, and mostly lacks the pockets for which American Fork is known. Instead, the climbing is devious face climbing on small edges with the occasional jug. Most of the lines have a ledge or two allowing decent rests.

Getting There 

Walk up Tank Canyon and follow the trail on the east (right) of the streambed. The trail will cross the streambed heading north and then immediately turn east (right). Continue following the trail through a grove of evergreens and then step over some tree roots and a short steep section to walk to the left of the stream.

The trail (and stream) turns north again (left); follow the trail past two gullies on the left. Just before the third gully a bolted route will appear on a limestone outcropping that almost reaches to the streambed. This is the first route on Visionary Wall.

For the three routes on the south side of the buttress, head up the gully along the base of Visionary Wall and cross the steep, loose gully when you are more-or-less level with the routes.

For the rest of the routes continue another hundred feet or so and head up along the south side of the next rock outcropping that almost reaches the streambed.

About a 12-minute walk.

Route List 

South side of buttress, left-to-right (i.e., starting uphill):

1. Spot 5.11b
2. Boo Direct 5.12a/b (shares start and anchors with Boo)
3. Boo 5.11c

East side of buttress:

4. Dag Nasty Part Deux 5.9
5. Old Stone Crab 5.10a (one long pitch, shares most of Old School's first pitch).
6. Old School 5.10b (two pitches, starts on east face)

North side of buttress (still left-to-right):

7. Diamond Dogs 5.11d
8. Bang Bang 5.11c

North side of gully north of buttress (south-facing):

9. Unknown name 5.11b

The Classics

Featured Route For Old School Rock

Dag Nasty Part Deux 5.9  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Old School Rock

70m rope requiredStart up the left of the two bolt lines and head up blocky, lower-angle terrain past an initial bulge and then into a steeper-than-it-appears headwall above. Clear the headwall and head up some slabby limestone with cool chert dikes, interesting pockets and edges, and then up over a roof in ligher-colored rock just before the anchors. Note that the bolt just over the last roof is difficult to see from below.Rappelling (there are some rough edges) with a 70m rope will ju...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT