Old Sandstone Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The first of many classics at the Sandstone.
The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs.
To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot, nearly to Highway 113. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4-5 cars. Park here.
The Rozno's Meadow/Ice Age Trail heads out into the meadow from this lot. Farther up the other side of the road toward Devils Lake the hiking trail head back into the woods.
Across the road and slightly east, find a less obvious trail cutting into the woods near the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.
Weather station 4.0 miles from here
34 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Old Sandstone
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Old Sandstone
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Old Sandstone:
Out There 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R TR, 1 pitch
Gargantua 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tarantula 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 60'
Has Been 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Freaky Face 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Uberschmidt 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Old Sandstone
Gargantua 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b WI
: Devil's Lake
: ... : Old Sandstone
Gargantua is a fun climb with an interesting start and finish. Start out under the right side of a sizeable roof (this roof is shared by Sepsen Wall, Uberschmitt, and Tarantula). Work your way up and out on the overhang, palming a rounded point on the edge of the roof. Swing your right foot above the roof and power over in one move to the dihedral above. Proceed up the fairly easy dihedral until hitting the "summit" block. Use fine face holds to surmount the block and top out with a mantel....[more] Browse More Classics in WI
BETA PHOTO: More rock down the way past Everleigh Club.
BETA PHOTO: Failed onsight attempt on an unidentified (as of y...
BETA PHOTO: Some rock past Everleigh Club. I think this one ha...
BETA PHOTO: More rock past Everleigh Club.
By Rick Mulhern
From: Cottage Grove, WI
Mar 31, 2009
Is the "Old Sandstone" area open in 2009?
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 31, 2009
I have not heard of any new closures, and as such I would assume it continues to remain open.