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DescriptionThe Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs. The area was closed for a number of years, but was reopened in the late 90's. Getting ThereTo access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4 cars. Park here and cross the road to find a trail cutting into the woods on the east side of the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Sandstone:
Chez's Chimney 5.4 Trad, TR
Everleigh Club Crack 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet
American Beauty Crack 5.8 Trad, TR
Curving Crack 5.8 Trad, TR
Wobbly Dihedral 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Out There 5.9 R TR, 1 pitch
Alligator Wall 5.9+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Mammalary Magic 5.10a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Dancing Madly Backwards 5.10b PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Tarantula 5.10b Trad, 60 feet
Gargantua 5.10b Trad, TR
Has Been 5.10c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Deceptive 5.10c/d PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Baker Street 5.10d TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Freaky Face 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
The High Life 5.11b TR
Seven Seas 5.11b TR, 40 feet
Pacific Ocean Wall 5.11d TR
Uberschmidt 5.12a TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Sepsen Wall 5.12a/b Trad, TR
Featured Route For Old Sandstone
Gargantua 5.10b WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone
Gargantua is a fun climb with an interesting start and finish. Start out under the right side of a sizeable roof (this roof is shared by Sepsen Wall, Uberschmitt, and Tarantula). Work your way up and out on the overhang, palming a rounded point on the edge of the roof. Swing your right foot above the roof and power over in one move to the dihedral above. Proceed up the fairly easy dihedral until hitting the "summit" block. Use fine face holds to surmount the block and top out with a mantel....[more] Browse More Classics in WI
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