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Old Sandstone
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack 
Alligator Wall 
American Beauty Crack 
Baker Street 
Broken Foot 
Chez's Chimney 
Chez's Chimney variation 
Curving Crack 
Dancing Madly Backwards 
Deceptive 
Dirty Little Secret 
Everleigh Club Crack 
Freaky Face 
Gargantua 
Girls Named Sue 
Half Crack 
Has Been 
High Life, The 
Mammalary Magic 
One-Upper 
Out There 
Pacific Ocean Wall 
Ptooey 
Sepsen Wall 
Seven Seas 
Sherlocked 
Swillbillies 
Tarantula 
Team Arturo 
Uberschmidt 
Wave Mechanics 
Wobbly Dihedral 

Old Sandstone 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,127'
Lat, Long: 43.4137, -89.6863 Map
Page Views: 42,739. Good page? (3 likes)   
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 25, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Failed onsight attempt on an unidentified (as of y...

Description 

The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs. The area was closed for a number of years, but was reopened in the late 90's.


Getting There 

To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4 cars. Park here and cross the road to find a trail cutting into the woods on the east side of the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Sandstone:
Chez's Chimney   5.4     Trad, TR   
Everleigh Club Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
American Beauty Crack   5.8     Trad, TR   
Curving Crack   5.8     Trad, TR   
Wobbly Dihedral   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Out There   5.9 R     TR, 1 pitch   
Alligator Wall   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Mammalary Magic   5.10a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Dancing Madly Backwards   5.10b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Tarantula   5.10b     Trad, 60 feet   
Gargantua   5.10b     Trad, TR   
Has Been   5.10c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Deceptive   5.10c/d PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Baker Street   5.10d     TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Freaky Face   5.10d     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
The High Life   5.11b     TR   
Seven Seas   5.11b     TR, 40 feet   
Pacific Ocean Wall   5.11d     TR   
Uberschmidt   5.12a     TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Sepsen Wall   5.12a/b     Trad, TR   
Browse More Classics in Old Sandstone

Featured Route For Old Sandstone
Tom Anderson-Brown at the start of Gargantua.

Gargantua 5.10b  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone
Gargantua is a fun climb with an interesting start and finish. Start out under the right side of a sizeable roof (this roof is shared by Sepsen Wall, Uberschmitt, and Tarantula). Work your way up and out on the overhang, palming a rounded point on the edge of the roof. Swing your right foot above the roof and power over in one move to the dihedral above. Proceed up the fairly easy dihedral until hitting the "summit" block. Use fine face holds to surmount the block and top out with a mantel....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI


Photos of Old Sandstone Slideshow Add Photo
The first of many classics at the Sandstone.

BETA PHOTO: The first of many classics at the Sandstone.

Some rock past Everleigh Club. I think this one has a name?

BETA PHOTO: Some rock past Everleigh Club. I think this one ha...

More rock down the way past Everleigh Club.

BETA PHOTO: More rock down the way past Everleigh Club.

More rock past Everleigh Club.

BETA PHOTO: More rock past Everleigh Club.


Comments on Old Sandstone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 3, 2003

Mr.Anderson Brown, I am a student at West Virginia University and I am doing a study on regulating rock climbing. I recently was on a search and rescue party to find a missing rock climber at Seneca Rocks, Wv. I was the unfortunate one to find his body. Soon after, the talk of regulation came about. If you could,I would like some opinions of yours and other rock climbers in the country. I am having a hard time finding any info on this touchy subject. Any information would be helpful. Please e-mail me at sgrant@mix.wvu.edu. Thank you for your help.

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 4, 2003

I would suggest talking with someone at the Access Fund about regulations. In my experience in WI, it's either all (Devil's Lake) or nothing (Gibraltar Rock). The Access Fund should have the info you're looking for.

By Rick Mulhern
Mar 31, 2009

Is the "Old Sandstone" area open in 2009?

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 31, 2009

I have not heard of any new closures, and as such I would assume it continues to remain open.