1.1 - Old Sandstone Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The first of many classics at the Sandstone.
The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs.
To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot, nearly to Highway 113. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4-5 cars. Park here.
The Rozno's Meadow/Ice Age Trail heads out into the meadow from this lot. Farther up the other side of the road toward Devils Lake the hiking trail head back into the woods.
Across the road and slightly east, find a less obvious trail cutting into the woods near the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.
Weather station 4.0 miles from here
34 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 1.1 - Old Sandstone
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 1.1 - Old Sandstone:
Out There 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R TR, 1 pitch
Ptooey 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 40'
Tarantula 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 60'
Gargantua 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Has Been 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Uberschmidt 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For 1.1 - Old Sandstone
Uberschmidt 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI
: Devil's Lake
: ... : 1.1 - Old Sandstone
Uberschmidt is the route immediately left of Tarantula and can be identified by a large roof one third of the way up. The climb breaches the center of the roof.Though intimidating from the ground, Uberschmidt climbs very well, as a bouldery, cut-your-feet sequence sees you over the roof. The climbing on the upper face eases considerably. Note: While pulling the roof, the right wall is definitely off. Using it makes this climb about 5.11.Much easier and more enjoyable (in my opinion) than the nig...[more] Browse More Classics in WI
BETA PHOTO: Old and new access
BETA PHOTO: Old and new access
BETA PHOTO: More rock past Everleigh Club.
BETA PHOTO: More rock down the way past Everleigh Club.
BETA PHOTO: Some rock past Everleigh Club. I think this one ha...
Failed onsight attempt on an unidentified (as of y...
By Doug Hemken
Apr 9, 2016
There is now an access trail to the top around the last of the rock at the west (left) end of the Old Sandstone, and brush has been piled up on the old access. Please use the new access to reduce erosion.