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5.7 Link Up T 
Eminent Domain T 
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Illusion of Prosperity T 
Manifest Destiny T 
Old Route T 
Rusty Bolt T 
Trail of Tears T 
White Riot T,S 

Old Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: FRA: Brad White & Matt Peer Summer 2011
Page Views: 562
Submitted By: chinos on Oct 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Jonathan Garlough belays Lincoln Tetherly on P3 of...

Description 

Start 50’up and left of the toe of rock. (many variations)

P1 – Climb 25’ up a short slab to a tree ledge and follow a vegetated groove to a two bolt anchor on the left side of a large white flake system. 50’ 5.4

P2 – Step right from the belay and layback the entire left side of the flake to a shallow corner. (Great Climbing!) Climb the open corner till a small finger crack crosses it. Follow the fingercrack up and left for 25’ then back right to a gear belay in a thin left facing flake. 115’ 5.7 (medium sized gear for belay)

(Var. #1) Climb up right side of the big white flake above small trees for 15’ and cross over left to a fixed pin in the center. Step left into the layback flake and climb straight up to the shallow left facing corner.
(Var. #2) 5.8 PG 13, Layback and climb straight up to the fixed angle piton, then face climb up the left arête of the flake. When you come to where the finger crack crosses the corner continue straight up to protection on the left side of the triangular block and then up and left to the belay flake.
(Var. #3) Climb entire right side of flake as for “Manifest Destiny” and cross over at the left slanting crack. This is the easiest way to get to the open corner above.

P3 – Climb up slightly right 20’ to a white jug below a shallow groove with a hidden red tri-cam pocket. From the pocket, slab climb up and left to a small overlap then straight up white face above to a large flake that is followed left to the large pine tree. 60’ 5.5

P4 – Climb up low angle ramp on left for 30’ to an open corner. Climb right side of corner up through overlaps to a two bolt ring anchor. 70’ 5.5 PG 13

FA: Unknown, but a fixed pin and pin scars say “long ago”. Pitch two and three can be combined with a 70 meter rope and lots of long slings. Route description and P1 and P4 anchors are from Brad White and Matt Peer Summer 2011.

Location 

Main Wall

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Old Route Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Peer on the middle groove of pitch two Old route.
Matt Peer on the middle groove of pitch two Old ro...
Lincoln Tetherly follows P2 on Old Route. <br />Photo by Matt Peer
Lincoln Tetherly follows P2 on Old Route. Photo by...
Brad White leads the second pitch flake <br />of Old Route. Photo by Matt Peer
Brad White leads the second pitch flake of Old Rou...
Topo of Old Route
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Old Route
Looking down from the pine tree belay to Pitch Three of Old Route. Climber Matt Peer.
Looking down from the pine tree belay to Pitch Thr...

Comments on Old Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Robert Hall
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Linked with P1 of "Manifest" (see comment on that route) and did the straight-up-to-the piton on P2, but above the pin face climbed UP-and-LEFT (5.7) back to the regular route.
Three pieces of Beta:
1) P2 is longer than 115 ft, I would put it at about 135-140 ft of rope. Even leaving gear at the flake belay, I really doubt a single 70M-rap (115ft) would make it back to the anchor.
2) The corner/crack 3+/- ft below the new fixed pin (about 1/2 way up P2) accepts a thin wired nut if you brush away the moss.
3) From reading the route description, I though I'd be climbing the thin crack to the gear belay, but when you're there it's clear you leave the crack and face/slab climb to the belay.
Also, on P3 I first fiddled with a red TriCam, then switched to the PINK, which went in easily.
We found "booty" at the P3 belay. Identify specifically with WHAT, including colors, in an e-mail and include your snail mail address.