Old Route  5.10a PG13

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Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Season:  Winters/Falls, cooler summer days Submitted By:  Billy Bylund on Mar 6, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

From Leonids, to Old Route

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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>> Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates! ACSD Access and Nesting Advisories Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a sustained 5.10a mixed route just a couple routes to the left of Leonids. I did it since Leonids was just filled with people (as it tends to be). I'm not sure this route has a single crux. There's a fair amount of thinking involved, a few crimper sections. There are a couple good rest spots. I had a blast on it.

Location 

About 3-4 routes to the left of Leonids, around a big flake. You can hop on a cause to pause after the first pitch - what I did.

Protection 

A confident 5.11 climber might just do this with the bolts, but I placed about 6 additional pieces of pro, about 3 cams ranging from 3/4" to 2", about 3 nuts in the medium size range. I forget how many draws, I think 10 was plenty, with 1-2 extenders. I think to get to the first bolt a small cam should be used. After that it's a clean fall (experienced this 1x). The bolts are placed fairly well before difficult moves.

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From Leonids, to Old Route