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Unnamed Route 16 
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Old Route 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Winters/Falls, cooler summer days
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: Billy Bylund on Mar 6, 2011
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From Leonids, to Old Route
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Description 

This is a sustained 5.10a mixed route just a couple routes to the left of Leonids. I did it since Leonids was just filled with people (as it tends to be). I'm not sure this route has a single crux. There's a fair amount of thinking involved, a few crimper sections. There are a couple good rest spots. I had a blast on it.


Location 

About 3-4 routes to the left of Leonids, around a big flake. You can hop on a cause to pause after the first pitch - what I did.


Protection 

A confident 5.11 climber might just do this with the bolts, but I placed about 6 additional pieces of pro, about 3 cams ranging from 3/4" to 2", about 3 nuts in the medium size range. I forget how many draws, I think 10 was plenty, with 1-2 extenders. I think to get to the first bolt a small cam should be used. After that it's a clean fall (experienced this 1x). The bolts are placed fairly well before difficult moves.



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By bspiewak
Nov 5, 2013

This entry is a duplicate of Unnamed Route 16.