Pitch 1: 100' - Follow the nice chimney. Exit right at the last chockstone and belay from a tree (choose wisely as there are many dead trees up there)
PItch 2: 70' - Up and to the left of the black streaks
Pitch 3: 150'
Descent: With rope stretch, a 60 metre rap from the top of pitch 2 will bring you to the ground (don't forget those knots). On a double rope rap, you'll NEED to rap down through the chimney if you're going to make it.
See the excellent Adirondack Rock guide for full details and topo.
Standard rack. Tree anchors.
From the top of pitch 1
JF leading P1
From: Albany, NY
Sep 5, 2011
Climbed the first pitch of the Old Route over Labor Day weekend, right after Hurricane Irene, which closed much of the High Peaks including Chapel Pond.
Hurricane Crag was deserted. Not one other party. High 70s, slight breeze. With my 12 yr old son, John.
Forgot my nut tool and left a #7 Metolius Stopper. :(
Good protection all the way. Solid 5.4.
| || Looking down from the belay of the first pitch. |
Sep 10, 2012
P1 is great fun! Fritz sure can pick 'em. If you're over 6 ft tall expect a bit of a squeeze in places. Also, there's some loose rock (assuming I didn't knock it all down) on the right-side wall about 1/3 of the way up.
|By Mark Trotta|
From: Latham, NY
Jun 24, 2013
Followed P1 of this route yesterday. It was a perfect way to end a hot humid day because of the perpetual cold draft throughout the chimney which both leader and lead belayer benefit from. I don't know if it's always wet inside or if those were the conditions that day only but plan on getting soaking wet and dirty. Leave the chalk bag in your pack. If you approach P1 more like a caving experience (headlamp might aid in placing gear) and less of a rock climbing route, you'll really enjoy it. With that approach, i'd give it 4 out of 5 stars rather than the 1 out of 5 that is in the guide book. But again, we didn't do the remaining two pitches. I had a great time and recommend it to anyone. A full rack should suffice.
Safety note: there IS a pile of loose rock in there so be careful. Belayer should stay clear of the chimney; sitting on the ledge a few feet up and right of the entrance is a great spot for the belayer. He/She can benefit from the cool breeze and be free from rockfall.