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The Black Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Farm, The T 
Cannonball Corner T 
Cary Granite T 
Coffee Achievers T 
Emerald Highway, The T 
Escape Route T 
Espresso T 
Good Evans T 
Harry Cary T 
High Variance T 
Old Rappel Route T 
Parallel Universe T 
Phil-a-Guster T 
Rainbow Highway T 
Road Warrior T 
Rusty Dagger, The T 
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 
Sinners On Sunday T 
Undertow T 
Undertow (free) T 
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Old Rappel Route 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Of rappel: K trout , Tom Vanco, 1985 +- Of climb: Maurice Reed, Trout, 1990+-
Season: Summer
Page Views: 791
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Jul 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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This map shows both approaches.


This route was climbed as part of a near miss on Cary Granite. Maurice's high point the lip of the roof and reached the sharp-edged, diagonal crack. But we did discover that doing the route labled 'A' on the topo was really nice.

Do the first pitch of Good Evans, 5.10+ route crux. Steel nuts protect thin moves using black xenoliths and the seam. This has excellent rock quality. Maybe it is only 5.8, A0 if you aid the short crux.

Do the second pitch of Cary Granite; 5.10 fingers-liebacking on beautiful, polished rock. Pass the point where Cary Granite takes a right. End at the single-bolt & double pin rap anchor. Shown as red dots on the topo-image.

Maurice and I added in an extra pitch, and some 5.11-, by deviating onto Cary Granite.

The final pitch, 5.4, starts wide, even takes smaller gear, and is 5.8 only when wet. Pass the two bolt rap station, ignore the tempting ledges, and stretch it to the top, 45 meters. The last move is also noted as 5.8 on the old topo, that's when wet. Nice 5.3 finish to the chains. A large stoppper and small sling thread help back up a more comfortable sitting belay, instead of hanging off the chains.


See the map photo.


Bring a standard Eldo Rack with bit of Valley too?! Yeah, I have no clue.

Photos of Old Rappel Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: There is a belay marked halfway up the first pitch...
BETA PHOTO: There is a belay marked halfway up the first pitch...

Comments on Old Rappel Route Add Comment
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By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2015

Good Evans was crowded, so we went this way, taking the Cary Granite p2 up the dihedrals & through the undercling roof. I then went straight left on the ledge (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) and got on top of the somewhat precarious looking flake to a bolt anchor. Then it's one more long pitch (kinda crappy) up the rap route to the anchors.

We had a rack for Good Evans, and that was fine for this route.

Overall, not really recommended as your planned route but a decent bail option.

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