Old Quarry Walls Rock Climbing
This area was mostly used as a homeless camp but that could be changing... Behind the homeless camp, through some razor sharp thorns and a behind a wall of poison ivy (clearly from the Jurassic Period), lies the remnants of a quarry operation on the South End.
The Old Quarry Walls at West Rock is the most up and coming sport crag in CT. This area was until recently used as a homeless camp, overrun with Poison Ivy and thorns, but thanks to a dedicated few it has been cleaned up. Countless hours have been spent removing poison ivy vines and trundling loose death blocks. While most the walls are shorter, they are varied with more vertical and overhanging sections then the Ballfield Slabs and offers some great hard climbing with lots more potential at the small urban crag.
Use caution however when climbing here as this is a new area still under development and there is still a lot of choss. Also note that on specific routes bolt spacing can be thin, these routes have been designated as R rated.
The best, most solid lines are on the far left wall including Tree of Life and People's Rock. This portion of the wall is in the sun the least throughout the day. The middle, and tallest section of the wall is the most dangerous with the most loose rock. There are no established lines here (yet). The obvious prominent arete is Desparate with a few lines in that area including Devil's cut. The far right developed part of the wall is the Crackrock corner which is home to the first bolted lines in the quarry, back when you had to wash everything you brought with you for fear of poison Ivy contaminating everything.
Instead of hiking up from the ball field and taking the second switchback back left along the base of the main slabs, continue hiking straight along the trail about 30 ft. Then head up over a small berm and into the homeless camp. Continue straight back from here to the walls. One can also follow the trail to the top and scramble to the top of the climbs and setup TR's.
Climbing Season For the Western Coastal Slope area.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Old Quarry Walls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Old Quarry Walls
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Old Quarry Walls:
Featured Route For Old Quarry Walls
Desparête 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a CT
: Western Coastal Slope
: ... : Old Quarry Walls
Climbs the obvious, orange, outrageous serrated, stepped arête in the middle of the cliff on incredibly solid orange streaked stone. A New England classic close in quality or on par with other New England classic arêtes such as of Edge of The World on Cathedral Ledge or Predator at Rumney. Start up the first section of Devils Cut then launch left onto the arête with bear hug and compression moves then continue up the arête . Its Desparête! A more direct start up the arête will push t...[more] Browse More Classics in CT
Myself just before bathing in poison ivy...
Oct 13, 2014
Great little zone. Much more potential here for sure. I took out three garbage bags of trash today and it looks great. Definitely one of those places where more climbers visiting will make it better.
Nov 9, 2014
These routes all look great. Good addition to New Haven sport climbing.
By Morgan Patterson
Mar 17, 2015
nope... but im sure there's some dry stuff esp the aretes.