This superb route follows the splitter crack in the middle of the Right Broken Arrow face. The climb starts in a dihedral (a convenient bolt keeps this part from being too runout), and transition into the splitter crack after pulling through a small overhang section. The combination of dihedral, crack, and face moves makes for a great climb on solid rock.
Cross the river and start in the right facing dihedral on the right side of the crag. Located to the left of Hostile Takeover.
Stadard rack up to 3", longer slings to reduce rope drag during the bottom moves. Shares anchor with Hostile Takeover.
Rachael giving the thumbs-up after a successful as...
Andy Purdy back-leads Old Punks on Crack with Ben ...
|Comments on Old Punks on Crack
|By Karl Kiser|
Apr 2, 2008
Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler and I placed the anchor on this route but there had been a previous FA.
|By Jeremy Aslaksen|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 17, 2010
Kinda chossy (up high) but fun.
The start is pretty cool...thought that was the best bit.
|By Mike Rowley|
From: Boise, Idaho
May 16, 2012
Hmmm... Maybe I am spoiled when it comes to crack climbing, but there was absolutely nothing splitter about this thing. I def agree with the start being the most enjoyable part of the route. If you are uncomfortable with the high bolt, you could get a bomber med size nut in a few feet below the bolt. Crack takes pretty decent pro, but is by no means "splitter." I wouldnt recommend it too highly... unless, like me you are desperate to climb a crack at Gilman. Great way to set up a TR on Hostile Takeover!