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The Old New Place is an east-facing basalt wall about 60 feet in height that offers many great crack lines for gear-protected leading or top roping. There are now bolted anchors here as a result of many of the cliff-top trees, that were traditionally used here as anchors, dying. Additionally, blocks and cracks near the cliff edge can be use to establish gear anchors.
From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs following a good climber's trail down off the top of the cliff. As you start to descend off the cliff top, the Old New Place will be visible as the large cliff face to your left. Descend about 30 feet on the climber's trail and head left along the base of the cliff.
23 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Old New Place
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old New Place:
Bee Sting 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
High Roof Left 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Route 10 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
High Roof Right 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
God Route (aka Mike's Route) 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Berserker 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Sinewave (aka S Crack) 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Trad, TR, 60'
Featured Route For Old New Place
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Old New Place
Rattlesnake Crack is a White Rock classic. The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but the gear is solid. Difficulty has been variably rated from 5.11a to 5.11c in different sources.Head up to the undercling flake. Place pro underneath the flake and traverse left and move up (crux). You're through the crux when you gain a sharp flake to shake out on. From here, most of the rest of the climb is 5.10. Climb up to a triangular roof, pass this on the left, and lieba...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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