Old Mountain Rd. Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Tips Crack - across from Oak Hill Drive
Edit - recently transferred to the state and no longer posted. I'll update this description shortly.
This is an area near Arcadia but not in it, full of boulders up to 20 feet tall, that is posted. However, it appears to be some sort of a land trust controlled by Fleet Bank with regularly used hiking trails and hunting. I am guessing that they post it for legal reasons, but don't really enforce it. I don't wish to encourage anybody breaking the law, but as long as I have known of the area, at least 15 years, I have never heard of anyone having issues. If you choose to visit, take responsibility for yourself in all ways, and be extremely discrete and low impact. It is imperative that you don't go as a large group, or with multiple cars, be very quiet and don't post up video on the internet. There are houses across the street, so don't do anything that would call attention to yourself and make them want to call the cops on you.
From the parking spot, get your stuff together quietly and if you walk past the gate, very quickly you will see a hillside to your right with large boulders. If you keep exploring down the old road you will find more rock. Everything seems to be to the right and up the hillside. Further west, across from Oak Hill Dr., in about 500 feet, is a cluster of two or three boulders with some good problems. There are some ledges to be found with bouldering potential further south in the same parcel, off of Carolina Nooseneck Rd.
The area has been climbed on for many years intermittently, but few routes have been recorded. It should probably remain low key for now.
If anybody gets in trouble going here or is asked to leave, please let me know and I will take this down.
Located off Old Mountain Road/Trail (both names are used) between Carolina Nooseneck Rd and Hillsdale Rd. in the town of Richmond. Driving east from Carolina Nooseneck Rd, at the bottom of a curvy hill, there will be a gated pulloff into an old dirt road on your right. There is another gated pulloff further west, past Oak Hill Drive.
Climbing Season For the Arcadia Management Area area.
Weather station 6.3 miles from here
Featured Route For Old Mountain Rd.
BETA PHOTO: Good Boulder across from Oak Hill Drive
Old Mountain Rd, one of the clusters near the roa...
By M Sprague
From: New England
Feb 28, 2016
Great news! I recently heard that this land had finally been transferred over to the DEM a couple years ago. I went and checked yesterday and it is no longer posted, so it should be fine to climb here and post up routes. Still, be respectful of nearby neighbors and keep the noise down and make sure your parked cars are not a problem. An added bonus: Hunting is not allowed so you don't have to worry about wearing orange.